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Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
11/02/2020 - Alpinism
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
19/01/2020 - Alpinism
Hohe Warte, Raphaela Haug and Martin Schidlowski strut up Catwalk in Valsertal
In Valsertal (Zillertal Alps, Tyrol) Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Once in a Lifetime climbed integritas in Langental, Dolomites
29/12/2019 - Alpinism
Once in a Lifetime climbed integritas in Langental, Dolomites
In Val Lietres (Langental, Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have repeated Once in a Lifetime, which they first ascended in February 2018. This is probably the first time that the icefall up Col Turont has been climbed entirely on ice. Riegler reports.
Stefano Carnati fast and furious up Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef
23/12/2019 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati fast and furious up Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef
At Margalef in Spain Stefano Carnati has repeated Demencia Senil, the 9a+ sport climb first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2009.
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
18/12/2019 - Alpinism
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
14/12/2019 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely on ice.
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
19/11/2019 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans, Markus Dorfleitner, Christian Schlesener and Moritz Attenberger have established a new route up Grundtvigskirken (1977m) in Greenland. The entire German expedition was carried out by fair means.
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.
Nirmal Purja climbs Shishapagma and completes 14 eight-thousanders in under 7 months
29/10/2019 - Alpinism
Nirmal Purja climbs Shishapagma and completes 14 eight-thousanders in under 7 months
Earlier today the Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja reached the summit of Shishapagma and, in doing so, completed his ‘Project Possible’ which aimed at climbing all fourteen eight-thousanders in less than seven months. Purja required just six months and six days; the previous record to complete Himalayan crown was over 7...
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
23/10/2019 - Alpinism
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made a rare ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m) in Nepal. Climbing alpine style for 5 days, the duo established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed west face.
Michele Boscacci, ski mountaineering in a family of champions
Michele Boscacci, ski mountaineering in a family of champions
Growing up in the limelight isn't easy, and if you are the son of a world champion you know this well. But not all stories are the same. La Sportiva storyteller meets Michele Boscacci to understand how the relationship with his father led him to become one of the strongest...
Geronimo up Torre Spinotti, new rock climb in Italy's Carnic Alps
21/10/2019 - Alpinism
Geronimo up Torre Spinotti, new rock climb in Italy's Carnic Alps
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalová have established Geronimo, a new multi-pitch climb up the West Face of Torre Spinotti ( Coglians - Cjanevate) in the Carnic Alps, Italy.

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