Home page Planetmountain.com

Britain’s Madeleine Cope repeating The Final Round (E9 6c) at Illam Rock in England
Photo by Madeleine Cope archive

Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales

di


Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.

E9 represents pretty much the upper echelon of British trad climbing, it’s a grade that extremely few have mastered and which sits just below what, currently, is deemed physically and psychologically possible.

Despite the fact that Britain’s first E9 was established way back in 1986, by an inspired Johnny Dawes on his Indian Face at Cloggy in Wales, such is the demanding nature of the difficulties that even today E9 repeats are still a rare commodity. Indeed, the grade has not been onsighted yet and in many respects this feat is considered the Holy Grail of British trad climbing.

In 2011 Hazel Findlay became the first British woman to climb E9, followed by Emma Twyford in 2013, Eve Lancashire in 2016 and Madeleine Cope in 2018, and although some visiting climbers have followed suit - notably Barbara Zangerl and Caroline Ciavaldini - female E9 ascents are understandably few and far between.

Which is precisely what makes the recent achievements of Cope and Twyford all the more important. While the former opted to repeat The Final Round at Illam Rock in the Peak District's picturesque Dovedale, the latter tested her mettle on Chupacabra in the atmospheric Huntsman's Leap at Pembroke in Wales. Both climbers, who now have multiple E9 ascents to their names, opted to work the routes toprope first prior to their successful headpoint ascents.

View this post on Instagram

Pembroke at its finest again. A superb weekend celebrating John Bunney’s 50th birthday. A few weeks ago I’d sacked off this route due to high humidity. It felt desperate and sketchy. After checking out some other routes I was drawn back to this on Sunday. I checked the moves and realised I could do it but on Monday after 4 days in I was tired. I’m sure we all get those days where we question if we want to commit and take big falls, I wasn’t sure. As the tide was well on its way in I decided to have a go, accepting the risks. I threw the kit on my harness in a haphazard manner, tied in and set off. My rope management wasn’t the best but I could see the tide creeping towards @caffinspain. Surprisingly I felt calm on the run out and made it through to the last few moves only to have my foot slip a couple of moves from the top taking a smaller fall! C’est la vie! one thing is for sure it got me psyched and I’ll be back! sometimes these things feel easier on the lead and we find the right headspace/zone to just go for it! I love that feeling on trad, it’s pretty special. @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @patagonia @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @edelweiss_connection @seatosummitgear @climbskinspain @hard.bar @v12_outdoor Thanks to @rock_science_ for the

A post shared by Emma Twyford (@emmatwyford) on



Share


NEWS / Related news:
Emma Twyford first British woman to climb 9a, Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn
19.09.2019
Emma Twyford first British woman to climb 9a, Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn
On 17 September 2019 British rock climber Emma Twyford successfully redpointed Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn in North Wales. In doing so she has become the first British woman to climb 9a.
Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung
03.04.2019
Madeleine Cope deals with difficult trad slab Prinzip Hoffnung
Britain’s Madeleine Cope has repeated Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs. First ascended by Beat Kammerlander in 2009, this is hailed as one of the hardest trad climbs in Austria.
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
02.09.2018
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Good weather has resulted in a series of hard trad repeats in Wales by the likes of James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet.
Hard trad repeats at Dyer's Lookout in Devon, UK
26.05.2018
Hard trad repeats at Dyer's Lookout in Devon, UK
Walk of Life has been repeated at Dyer's Lookout in Britain by James McHaffie, while he, Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have repeated Once Upon a Time in the South West. Graded E9, these are some of the finest and most fearsome trad climbs in Great Britain.
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
09.09.2014
British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.
Hazel Findlay climbs her second E9
03.04.2013
Hazel Findlay climbs her second E9
English rock climber Hazel Findlay has climbed her second E9, Chicama at Treaddur Bay, Holyhead, Wales.
Huntsman's Leap, rock climbing in Wales
17.09.2009
Huntsman's Leap, rock climbing in Wales
With almost 60 routes on its East and West Walls, Huntsman's Leap is one of the most popular sea cliffs in Pembroke, Wales.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra