Home page Planetmountain.com
English rock climber Hazel Findlay
Photo by archive Hazel Findlay
INFO / links & info:

Hazel Findlay climbs her second E9

by

English rock climber Hazel Findlay has climbed her second E9, Chicama at Treaddur Bay, Holyhead, Wales.

The news is astonishing: in late March Britain's Hazel Findlay repeated Chicama on the island of Holyhead just off Anglesey in North Wales. In doing so she has doubled her takings, bringing her tally of E9 climbs to two after having become the first woman to climb E9 in summer 2011when she repeated Dave Birkett's Once Upon a Time in the South West at Dyer's Lookout in Devon .

Chicama is a steep, loose line first climbed by Tim Emmett in 2003 which had lain ignored and unrepeated at at Treaddur Bay until Findlay turned her attention to it in March. At the time of the first ascent Emmett had protected the route with trad pro and, since bolts are uncommon on Welsh sea cliffs, a series of pegs. These had deteriorated significantly so Findlay replaced them in exactly the same places, adding a further peg to the original 6 where one couldn't be removed. Once the route was deemed sufficiently safe Findlay set about working the moves - no mean feat due to the steepness of the cave - and then headpointed the route on her first attempt.

In sports climbing terms the difficulties of Chicama might compare to 8a+, but having to place all the gear on lead and rely of dodgy protection obviously makes this an entirely different proposition, hence the "hallowed" E9 grade. To put this into perspective: while it is true that sports climbing standards have risen significantly, E9 "is still an incredible feat of rock climbing skill" as Dave Macleod explained to Planetmountain in 2009 adding "yes, it’s still world class."

When asked about her two E9's Findlay explained: "They are massively different routes, Once Upon a Time in the South West is a slab, Chicama is overhanging. Once is technically harder and there is one pretty hard move on it. It's also a bigger proposition - 50 metres and 30 pieces of weird gear. That wall is also quite frightening for some reason - big and looks totally unfeatured from the ground. Chicama on the other hand is only about 20 - 25 metres high, but feels longer because it's steep and traverses left then back right past slightly sketchy rock and often wet and greasy holds. It would maybe be more possible to hurt yourself on Chicama though - since it's shorter you have a greater chance of hitting the ground."

For a full report and photos check out hazelfindlay.wordpress.com

Share


SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer