Multiple Dutch first ascents in Denyai Tokpo valley (Zanskar, India)

In the third week of August in 2025, after two years of training and preparation, the Dutch NKBV Expedition Academy* departed for India’s Zanskar region. After a week of travel and approach, the team established its base camp at 4600 meters in the Denyai Tokpo valley, but due to a difficult river crossing only half of the luggage arrived.

The morning after arrival, rain started falling which quickly transformed into snow. After four days of continuous heavy snowfall, digging out tents and sharing socks, jackets and underwear, the team was finally greeted by the sun and the other half of their luggage. This was apparently the largest snow storm since 1984 in Zanskar.

For the first two and a half weeks in base camp, sun and snow alternated the skies. This was a very unusual weather pattern for the normally desert climate in Zanskar. Naturally, this weather can only have been caused by accidentally spinning a Buddhist prayer wheel in the wrong direction by one of the team members…

Plowing through snow and first successes
The snowy conditions and unstable weather prevented the team from attempting large objectives. After a week of patiently waiting, Folke and Jan launched a desperate (near-desperate) attempt and successfully climbed a snow-capped mountain after wading through hip-deep unconsolidated snow for 13 hours (Nochung Ri (5700m), PD+, 45°, Committed to the Cause, September 1, 2025).

Although conditions and weather remained unfavourable, this first success marked the start of a series of attempts on higher peaks. A large group comprising Alex, Folke, Jan, Jules, Maël, Joris, Bas and Niek carried out an attempt through hip-deep snow but were not able to reach the base of the Chotzangma massif and returned to basecamp. At the same time Boris, Claartje, Karlijn and Laura attempted the east ridge of Chortan Rigib-East, but reached an impassable and unprotectable slab at their highpoint of approximately 5800 meters, just 20 meters short of the summit (Chortan Rigib-East (5800m), 5b, 45°, 650m, Warrior girls, September 4, 2025).

The day after, Alex and Mael successfully climbed Chotzangma Central through an increasingly steep north face. Their attempt was closely followed through binoculars from base camp. The team descended the ascent route (Chotzangma-Central and East (5800m), D, 80°, 500m, Snow symphony, September 5, 2025).

A few hours after Alex and Mael returned to base camp Jan, Jules and Niek left at midnight to attempt a different route on the adjacent north face of Chotzangma West. They encountered technical mixed climbing in the first half, followed by steep snow and a rock climbing section in the upper half. They reached the summit of Chotzangma-West, completing a full traverse of the ridge including the central and east peaks. The team descended down the route from Alex and Maël (Chotzangma-West variant 5770m, D+, 75°/M4+, 500m, Tak Sham, September 6, 2025).

At the same time Bas, Folke and Joris returned to Chortan-Rigib aiming for the west summit (5752m). They ascended the increasingly steep north-west face and climbed one steeper length of ice to reach the snowy summit ridge. During the numerous abseils made while descending, they gradually replaced their rope commands by ‘Jullay’, a local Ladakhi greeting frequently used by our ever-smiling base camp helper Gara. The route was named "Jullay broer" (Chortan rigib-West 5752m, D, AI3, 70°, 600m, Jullay Broer, September 6).

Return to good weather and final week of climbing
During the last five days of the expedition the unusual weather disappeared, and the team was welcomed by the stable, sunny weather Zanskar is known for.

During these days Boris and Karlijn reached Rejam Ri (5600m) via the east ridge, marking a successful comeback for Karlijn, who suffered an ACL tear and a tear of both menisci not more than a year ago (Rejam Ri 5600m, Steps of the Chough  5b+, 30°). At the same time, Jan, Jules and Claartje opened a rock route halfway up a Piz Badile look-a-like summit (Core Memories, 350m, 6a+).

In this same weather window, Alex, Folke, Laura, Maël, Bas and Niek reached the highest summit of the valley: Khang Chan Chenmo (6135 meter). Their route started on a steep snow gulley and transitioned into mixed climbing on a rocky headwall for the last 400 meters. The route was named Wish You Were Here in remembrance of all their friends that lost their lives in the mountains, and in particular Jeroen van Ommen, Mats Wentholt and Line van den Berg (Khang Chan Chenmo 6135m, 5b, 50°, 700m, Wish You Were Here, September 12, 2025).

Rock Routes and Base Camp Boulders
During the short spells of good weather Jan opened over 50 boulders (more info on www.8a.nu) and the team opened several rock routes on subsidiary peaks close to base camp ranging from 40-350 meters up to a difficulty of 6b.

Earlier explorations of Denyai
In previous years, two teams visited Denyai Tokpo, but had little time to attempt ascents. There remains a large amount of possibilities for first ascents. We extend a very big thanks to Matija Jošt of Slovenia for introducing us to a committed, local, and friendly trekking agent, Skitpo travel. Moreover Matic provided us with a lot of information, photos, logistical details, and psych. We also would like to express our gratitude to Tess Smith for valuable information about Denyai Tokpo, especially the approach to base camp. Irene Schrijvershof helped us professionally as a doctor both in preparation and during the expedition. All the mountains were either previously named by the local population if visible from their villages, or given a Ladakhi name in consultation with our wonderful base camp crew (also local).

Summary of alpine routes:

• Chortan Rigib-East (5800m), 5b, 45°, 650m, Boris Textor, Karlijn de Wit, Laura Oldenburger, Claartje Meijs (Warrior girls, September 4, 2025)
• Chortan rigib-West (5752m), AI3, 70°, 600m, Folke Drost, Bas Visscher, Joris Timmermans (Jullay Broer, September 6, 2025)
• Nochung Ri (5700m), PD+, 45°, Folke Drost, Jan van der Meulen (Committed to the Cause, September 1, 2025)
• Chotzangma-Central and East (5800m), D, 80°, 500m, Alexander Sternfeld, Maël Durand (Snow symphony, September 5, 2025)
• Chotzangma-West variant (5800m), D+, 75°/M4+, 500m, Jan van der Meulen, Jules de Ruiter, Niek de Jonge, (Tak Sham, September 6, 2025))
• Khang Chan Chenmo (6135m), 5b, 50°, 700m, Alexander Sternfeld, Laura Oldenburger, Bas Visscher,
• Niek de Jonge, Folke Drost, Maël Durand (Wish You Were Here, September 12, 2025)
• Rejam Ri (5600m), 5b+, 30°, Boris Textor, Karlijn de Wit (Steps of the Chough, September 12, 2025)

Summary of rock routes:

• Splitter glitter (200m), 6b, Alex, Mael en Niek
• Scar power (150m), 5c+, Laura, Bas en Karlijn
• Unfinished business (40m), 5c/6a, Joris en Jules
• Project Hariborrels (100m), 6a, Alex en Bas
• Stone man is watching you (300m), 5c, Alex, Boris en Karlijn
• Cracking smiles (300m), 5c+, Laura en Claartje
• The show must go on (300m), 6b, Claartje en Karlijn
• Core memories (350m), 6a+, Jules, Jan en Claartje

The Expedition Academy is a project by the Dutch climbing and mountaineering federation (NKBV) and was supported by Rab, Scarpa, Mountain Network, and buitensportvoeding.nl. More information about the Dutch NKBV Expedition Academy can be found on its website nkbv.nl and on its Instagram page.

* Dutch climbing and mountaineering federation’s (NKBV) equivalent of KBF’s Mount Coach, DAV Expeditionskader, FFCAM Groupe Excellence Alpinisme National (GEAN), SAC-Expeditionsteam.