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Maurizio Oviglia rebolting Sole Incantatore on Aguglia di Goloritzè in Sardinia, May 2020
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia
The amazing Aguglia di Goloritzè in Sardinia
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia
Aguglia di Goloritzè Sardinia
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia
The topo of Sole Incantatore, Aguglia di Goloritzè Sardinia. First ascended in 1995 by Maurizio Oviglia, it was rebolted by the Italian in 2020
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia

Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory

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On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb in Sardinia. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

25 years after the first ascent of Sole Incantatore, quite possibly the most popular route on Aguglia di Goloritzè and without a doubt the most repeated multipitch sport climb in Sardinia, I decided to rebolt it after a tip-off from some who had recently peated it.

In 1995 I bolted this line on my own, top down, and it was the last route I established in this style. Now though I wasn’t alone, but instead I was accompanied by Enrico Barca, one of the rare but passionate climbers from Baunei. Before rebolting the climb, I received the necessary permission from the Baunei town council and the local police force.

I used stainless steel 316L bolts which, judging by the others on this grey rock, should prove durable. Obviously, periodic maintenance is always key on routes as popular as this one. I also added some bolts along the few run-out sections and replaced several rusty bolt belays.

The most significant change is at the start. Originally this followed the first 15 meters of Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento, the first route up the tower established by Manolo and Alessandro Gogna, before continuing straight up. At the time of the first ascent I decided to do this in order to not bolt the classic, peg-protected outing; two not particularly great pegs protected this start, while my bolts started after this section. Over the years this has become extremely polished due to the high number of repeats.

I have now added an independent, well-bolted 5c start, located between the Manolo - Gogna climb and Easy Gymnopedie. I also added a belay so that the first, almost 45m, pitch can be split in two. This also means that an abseil with a 70m rope is now possible. The five pitches break down as follows: 5c, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c.

I paid for all the gear and expenses, should anyone wish to contribute they can do so by making a paypal donation using my email account: maurizio.oviglia@tin.it.. If I get more money than what I spent, then I’ll use to the change the French-style belays at the Villaggio Gallico crag. Thanks.

by Maurizio Oviglia

TOPO: Sole Incantatore, Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia

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