Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory

25 years after the first ascent of Sole Incantatore, quite possibly the most popular route on Aguglia di Goloritzè and without a doubt the most repeated multipitch sport climb in Sardinia, I decided to rebolt it after a tip-off from some who had recently peated it.

In 1995 I bolted this line on my own, top down, and it was the last route I established in this style. Now though I wasn’t alone, but instead I was accompanied by Enrico Barca, one of the rare but passionate climbers from Baunei. Before rebolting the climb, I received the necessary permission from the Baunei town council and the local police force.

I used stainless steel 316L bolts which, judging by the others on this grey rock, should prove durable. Obviously, periodic maintenance is always key on routes as popular as this one. I also added some bolts along the few run-out sections and replaced several rusty bolt belays.

The most significant change is at the start. Originally this followed the first 15 meters of Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento, the first route up the tower established by Manolo and Alessandro Gogna, before continuing straight up. At the time of the first ascent I decided to do this in order to not bolt the classic, peg-protected outing; two not particularly great pegs protected this start, while my bolts started after this section. Over the years this has become extremely polished due to the high number of repeats.

I have now added an independent, well-bolted 5c start, located between the Manolo - Gogna climb and Easy Gymnopedie. I also added a belay so that the first, almost 45m, pitch can be split in two. This also means that an abseil with a 70m rope is now possible. The five pitches break down as follows: 5c, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6c.

I paid for all the gear and expenses, should anyone wish to contribute they can do so by making a paypal donation using my email account: maurizio.oviglia@tin.it.. If I get more money than what I spent, then I’ll use to the change the French-style belays at the Villaggio Gallico crag. Thanks.

by Maurizio Oviglia

TOPO: Sole Incantatore, Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia