Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
In a previous report I provided details of routes that Louis Piguet had rebolted, in the meantime he has continued to substitute old bolts and he would like to share this information with others. As is well known, Piguet concentrates primarily on easier, more popular sectors rather than difficult routes. As he himself points out, prior to developing new marine crags it would be wiser to rebolt the existing ones. And Piguet, there can be no doubt, demonstrates what he believes in through his actions. Piguet’s report is published below (Maurizio Oviglia).
Pranu Sartu (Buggerru): I have completed rebolting the multi-pitch climb Litri e litri di vino cattivo, one bolt (stainless steel) on the first bolt snapped when I weighted it (!). The entire route has now been re-equipped, with abseils starting from the summit in order to avoid traversing from Riflessi Magici below...
At Pranu Sartu I have rebolted the following multi-pitches: Plus loin sera la mer, Il canto del sifone, Pista Ciclabile, Thalassa, Riflessi Magici, La Signora delle cappelle et Litri & Litri di vino cattivo.
At Gurruthone (Lanaitto, Oliena): from right to left, as you arrive along the path:
(* = year the route or the belay were rebolted)
- Buon divertimento (*2012) 5b 32m
- O2M (LPi *2012) 6a 32m
- Mandragola (*2012) 6a 32m
- Leopard 6a 32m (*2012)
- Bonsaï 5c 30m (*2012)
- Bella 5c 22m (LPi 2015)
- Luna 6a 18m (LPi 2016)
- Mon Amour (P. Fancello) 6c 22m
- Lakana 6b+ 20m (LPi 2012)
- Sieste en mai 6b 20m (LPi 2009)
- Terre Brune 6a+ 28m (LPi 2010)
- Mamuthones 5b+ 28m (LPi 2010)
- 11 de capidanne 6a 28m (*2010)
- Sa Chicchera 6a 20m
- Maria 5c 20m
- Ciao Ciao Sardegna 5c, 5c 40m *(2013) 80m rope necessary
- Scirocco 6a, 6a 40m (LPi 2009) 80m rope necessary
- La Roncola 5b, 6a 40m (*2013) 80m rope necessary
- Biuda 6a 30m (*2013)
- Era un’ piacere 5c 31m (LPi 2013)
- L’Ami René 6° 30m (LPi 2011)
- Qua 5c 25m (* 2009)
- Quo 6a 25m (* 2009)
- Qui 6a+ 25m (* 2009)
- Maestro Piero 5c 27m (* 2010)
- Manuela 6a 15m P. Fancello
- La Mano è stanca 7a 15m E. Lecis (* relais 2010)
Budinetto (Cala Gonone) all belays were substituted in June 2014, and the following routes were added to the left-hand side of the crag:
- Biddoi (Salvatore de l’ovile) 4c 16m (LPi 2014)
- Stockhorn Sport
- to the right of Sta Peppina vergine: “Il Soriso di Sascha” 6a 28m
- to the right of Gecko in calore: “Come à Chamonix” 5b 25m
- Con vista sul’mare 5a 22m (LPi 2014)
Cala Fuili east beach (Cala Gonone): all belays were reequipped with Marine quality stainless steel bolts (LPi June 2016)
the following routes have been re-equipped entirely with marine quality stainless steel bolts:
- Manga (17. not named in the guidebook Pietra di Luna) 5a 20m
- Zia Lillith
- Spigolo Fuili (compare the photo of the anchor on the rock, to the photo of the anchor subsequently removed! The bolt had not expanded and would have pulled outunder an axial load!)
- Porto io i nuts
- Mad Max (finish direct to new belay)
Cala Fuili west beach (Cala Gonone): all routes were reequipped with Marine quality stainless steel bolts (LPi 2015 & April, May & June 2016), except for 41, 42 & 43.
- to the right of Ponente there is a new route: "Il bacio della sirena" 5b 15m (LPi 2016). This finishes at the same belay of Ponente
- Start of "È pericoloso sporgersi" on the sea boulder, first pitch 5a 20m, second pitch 6b+, and lower off to the foot of Kho phi phi. A 70m is OK for toproping this combination.
Cala Fuili Settore Petit bateau (Cala Gonone):
- Nesquik: French belay has been substituted as it was deemed too dangerous for this type of sector!l! (check out the photos!) It has been substituted with marine quality stainless steel belay. (June 2016)
- a maillon rapide & and stainless steel ring have been added to the upper part of the French belay, as this was less worn than that of Nesquik! (routes from 57 - 60)
This type of belay can work well for routes that are not too popular. But an intensive use, as in the Petit Bateau sector (more than 15 teams of climbers/day!) the upper anchor is stressed too much and wears down quickly! Furthermore, the lower sideways resined anchor provides doubtful resistance to the torsion!
The same holds true for worn carabiners, as can be seen in the attached photos, they wear in the same point and become extremely dangerous! Personally I have preferred freely rotating rings as these rotate and hardly ever wear. (Louis Piguet)