844 News found

The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

Slovak mountain guide Miroslav Peťo reports about his ski touring trip to the Ala Dağlar mountain range in Turkey with Robert Vrlák and Rastislav Križan which resulted in a number of interesting descents including what is likely to be the first integral descent of Mount Demirkazik via its South Face....

Published below is the press release of the Arco Climbing Club announcing that, due to the Covid-19 crisis, Rock Master 2020 has been cancelled. After having laid the foundation with SportRoccia in 1985 and 1986, this annual climbing competition in Arco, Italy has transformed into the oldest and most famous...

Joe Brown, one of the world’s greatest all-round climbers, passed away last night aged 89. Brown pioneered climbs throughout Great Britain, the Alps and the Greater Ranges in particular in the 1950's and '60's. Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech in Wales and the first ascent of Kangchenjunga (8586m) in Nepal...

A video dedicated to female climbers in which balance, strength and lightness are the key players. With photos by Giulio Malfer and music performed live by Giorgio Gobbo, Sergio Marchesini, Debora Petrina, Graziano Colella.

Courtesy of the Scoiattoli di Cortina we have published online Rosso 70: Stories and memories of 70 years of alpinism of the Scoiattoli di Cortina. The film by Vinicio Stefanello and Francesco Mansutti retraces the first 70 years of the historic and famous Italian mountaineering club established in the Dolomites...

During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...

Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.

At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Mission To Mars, a hugely overhanging ice climb they have graded WI 13.

South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter

In Valsertal (Zillertal Alps, Tyrol) Martin Schidlowski and Raphaela Haug have climbed Catwalk, a probable new mixed line up the NE Face of Hohe Warte.

From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...

Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports

A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.

In Val Lietres (Langental, Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have repeated Once in a Lifetime, which they first ascended in February 2018. This is probably the first time that the icefall up Col Turont has been climbed entirely on ice. Riegler reports.