Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria

Last August multiple world champion Angela Eiter managed to free an extremely difficult project close to home at Imst in Austria. The route in question, Madame Ching, is 50 meters long, boasts more than 100 moves and is obviously wildly overhanging. Precisely for these reasons the 34-year-old former competition climber has compared it to La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain, which she redpointed in 2017 becoming the first woman in the world to climb 9b.

Madame Ching was bolted by Eiter’s husband Bernie Ruech. Initially Eiter struggled to do even the single moves and specific training was therefore needed prior to attempting to link various sections. In addition to the physical difficulties, Eiter also had to battle against the unknown; when it comes to repeating an existing route one always knows that it is possible, here though she had to question the line's feasibility and deal with the uncertain outcome. A shoulder press after 80 moves proved to be the redpoint crux but on a cold August day she unexpectedly made the send.

"This route has given me so much, the entire process has been a real gift" explained Eiter, indicating that the grade is of secondary importance. Also because in the future she hopes to find another project similar to Madame Ching. "It doesn't have to be as difficult as this one, but it has to be just as beautiful!"

For the record, Eiter also tentatively compared the overall difficulties of Madame Ching to those La planta de Shiva, which as stated is given 9b. If confirmed, this would be the first time that a woman has freed a route of these difficulties. The previous hardest female first ascent was carried out by Anak Verhoeven in 2017 when she established the 9a+ Sweet Neuf at Pierrot Beach in France.

ANGELA EITER
Top climbs
08/2020 - Madame Ching, Imst, Austria, first ascent
10/2019 - Schatzinsel, Imst, Austria, first ascent
06/2019 - Pure Dreaming, Massone, Arco
10/2017 - La planta de shiva 9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
04/2015 - Era Vella 9a, Margalef, Spain
11/2014 - Big Hammer 9a, Pinswang, Austria
10/2014 - Hades 9a. Götterwandl, Austria
10/2014 - Hercules 8c+ Götterwandl, Austria first ascent

Top competition victories
World Championships - 2005, 2007, 2011, 2012
European Championships - 2010
World Cup - 2004, 2005, 2006
Arco Rock Master - 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2012
Arco Rock Legends 2006, first edition. In 2015 she was nominated for the Rock Award.

Links: www.angelaeiter.com, La Sportiva