616 News found

24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...

18/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

07/09/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.

02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

28/08/2020 - Alpinism
Alta infedeltà climbed Sasso delle Undici Marmolada, Dolomites Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, is a multi-pitch rock climb established on 22 June 2020 on Sasso delle Undici in Marmolada, Dolomites by the mountain guides Thomas Gianola and Fabrizio Della Rossa. The seven pitch outing breaches difficulties up to VI-.

24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020 Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...

05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

04/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.

03/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.

31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...

24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.

19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.

04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.

24/04/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard, the film about the great British climber Tom, the film by Angel Esteban and Elena Goatelli, is now online. This documents the attempt of British mountaineer Tom Ballard to become the first to solo in the same winter season the six great North Faces of the Alps: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Petit...
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