224 News found

12/11/2018 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Sintflut, Deluge, a new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Mount Prijakt in Austria. Messini reports.

09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.

05/09/2018 - Alpinism
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.

29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

13/08/2018 - Alpinism
Uein Line, new rock climb up Große Fermeda in Geisler Dolomites At the start of August Aaron Moroder and Miran Mittermair teamed up to establish Uein Line on Große Fermeda, the striking tower in one of the most famous mountain groups in the Dolomites, the Geisler.

20/07/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and...

15/07/2018 - Alpinism
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...

18/05/2018 - Alpinism
Changabang North Face alpine style by France's Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel Climbing alpine style from 11 - 13 May, French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel belonging to Groupe Militaire de haute montagne (GMHM) have repeated the impressive North Face of Changabang (6864 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.

30/04/2018 - Interviews
Everest - Lhotse traverse, Sherpa Tenji attempts mountaineering enchainment in memory of Ueli Steck Interview with British mountaineer Jon Griffith on expedition in Nepal where Sherpa Tenji will attempt the famous Everest - Lhotse traverse without supplementary oxygen. Griffith is coordinating the live streaming of the ascent in memory of his close friend Ueli Steck who planned this enchainment last year.

21/03/2018 - Alpinism
Germans climb new route up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia On January 15th 2018 Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff and Lutz Zybell climbed the new route La Torcida (450m, 12 pitches, 7a M) up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia. Tom Ehrig reports.

01/02/2018 - Alpinism
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.

31/08/2017 - Alpinism
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.

11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

21/06/2017 - Alpinism
Dent Blanche and Wandfluegrat, the normal South Ridge route Mountaineering in Switzerland: Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces the famous Wandfluegrat, also referred to as the Dent Blanche South Ridge (4357m), the classic alpine ridge high above Val d'Herens in Switzerland’s canton Valais.

05/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ralf Dujmovits, dream vanishes of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen At the end of May the German mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits was forced to abandon his attempt of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen due to the strong winds and snowfall at 8,580 meters. In 2009, Dujmovits completed all fourteen 8000ers without O2, except for the highest mountain in the world.

29/05/2017 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week After having summited Everest on 22 May 2017, on 27 May Spain’s Kilian Jornet Burgada reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain for the second time in one week. Jornet Burgada climbed without supplementary oxygen and in 17 hours from Advanced Base Camp.
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