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Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
05/02/2018 - Alpinism
Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga...
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
01/02/2018 - Alpinism
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
30/01/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera establish Maracaibo up Cerro Pollone
On the NW Face of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera established Maracaibo, a new rock climb 300 meters high graded 7a/C1.
Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Vlad Capusan, Zsolt Török in Patagonia
23/01/2018 - Alpinism
Cerro Adela Sur, new Romanian variation by Vlad Capusan, Zsolt Török in Patagonia
Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Zsolt Török have added a new variation to Filo Este on Cerro Adela Sur in Patagonia. The logical new line was climbed in 34 hours.
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
17/01/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.
Boswell and Robertson discover their Holy Grail in Scottish Highlands
15/01/2018 - Alpinism
Boswell and Robertson discover their Holy Grail in Scottish Highlands
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have climbed a significant new route on Buachaille in Scotland called The Holy Grail IX/10.
Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness
14/01/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness
27-year-old Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has flashed the 8B+ boulder problem Catalan Witness the Fitness at Cova de Ocell in Spain.
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats La Capella at Siurana, his fourth 9b
12/01/2018 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats La Capella at Siurana, his fourth 9b
At the Spanish crag Siurana Stefano Ghisolfi has pulled off the second ascent of the 9b sports climb La Capella, freed by Adam Ondra in 2011. This is the 24-year-old Italian’s fourth climb of this difficulty.
Kandersteg new mixed climbs by Chatelan, Mercier, Koller
12/01/2018 - Alpinism
Kandersteg new mixed climbs by Chatelan, Mercier, Koller
Simon Chatelan, Jeff Mercier and Ron Koller have made the first ascent of two new ice and mixed climbs at the Oeschinenwald sector above Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Climbing video: Charlotte Durif & Josh Larson discover Greece and Serbia
11/01/2018 - Climbing
Climbing video: Charlotte Durif & Josh Larson discover Greece and Serbia
Two climbing videos documenting the 'A World Less Traveled’ trip of climbers Charlotte Durif and Josh Larson as they discover the lesser-known climbing areas of 18 countries sprinkled across 6 continents.
Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert
10/01/2018 - Climbing
Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert
At Santa Linya in Spain Janja Garnbret has climbed her second 9a sports climb, while Jakob Schubert has redpointed another 9a+.
Jakob Schubert climbs third 9b / Stoking the Fire at Santa Linya
06/01/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert climbs third 9b / Stoking the Fire at Santa Linya
At Santa Linya in Spain Austria’s Jakob Schubert has redpointed Stoking the Fire, his third sports climb graded 9b.
Adam Ondra resolves La Teoria del Gesto at Sperlonga
05/01/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra resolves La Teoria del Gesto at Sperlonga
During a brief visit to the Grotta dell’Areonauta crag at Gaeta in Italy Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a sports climb La Teoria del Gesto.
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22 - 25 December 2017.
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
On 24 December 2017 the 33-year-old Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold made a free solo ascent of the icefall Beta Block Super up the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Dolomites Val Mesdì and the ice climb up Pizza Longata
01/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites Val Mesdì and the ice climb up Pizza Longata
The topo of the icefall climbed in December 2016 by Mountain Guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher in Val de Mesdi, Sella group, Dolomites. Not necessarily a new route, but certainly a great winter climb.

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