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Nina Caprez, Aymeric Clouet climb Eiger's La Vida es Silbar
07/08/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez, Aymeric Clouet climb Eiger's La Vida es Silbar
Swiss climbers Nina Caprez and Aymeric Clouet have repeated 'La Vida es Silbar' up the North Face of the Eiger.
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
05/08/2019 - Alpinism
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
On 5 August 1939 the North Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria was climbed by Gustl Thaler and Gerald Leinweber. Mountain guide Lisi Steurer reports about this historic first ascent 80 years ago and her recent repeat with Christine Regoutz, her rather special client. And not only because...
Squamish, Skywalker, and the sublime rock climbing in Canada
29/07/2019 - Alpinism
Squamish, Skywalker, and the sublime rock climbing in Canada
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Squamish, one of the world's foremost crack climbing areas, as well as Skywalker, a not too difficult multi-pitch rock climb still fairly unknown outside the borders of Canada.
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.
K2 summits by Adrian Ballinger, Carla Perez & Co
24/07/2019 - Alpinism
K2 summits by Adrian Ballinger, Carla Perez & Co
K2 was climbed without supplementary oxygen today by Adrian Ballinger and Carla Perez. Shortly beforehand the summit of the second highest mountain in the world was reached by Nirmal Purja and his sherpa team climbing with O2.
Huanka Punta, another Peru master climb by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
24/07/2019 - Alpinism
Huanka Punta, another Peru master climb by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Spanish mountaineers Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have established Cabeza Clava, a multi-pitch rock climb up Huanka Punta in the SE part of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required...
Camilla Bendazzoli at Arco climbs her first 8c
16/07/2019 - Climbing
Camilla Bendazzoli at Arco climbs her first 8c
At Narango above Lake Garda close to Arco, Italy, Camilla Bendazzoli has redpointed Cinque Uve. This is her first 8c sports climb.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
14/07/2019 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
Spaniard Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated Biographie, the 9a+ at Ceuse freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as a benchmark for its grade
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
03/07/2019 - Alpinism
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.
Via ferrata delle Aquile Cima Paganella, Trentino, Italy
30/06/2019 - Alpinism
Via ferrata delle Aquile Cima Paganella, Trentino, Italy
The description of Via ferrata delle Aquile up Cima Roda della Paganella (2124m) in Trentino, Italy, with a splendid view onto Val d’Adige, the Brenta Dolomites and Lake Garda. By Mauro Girardi, MMove mountain guide.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
28/06/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek make their Premiere
Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek & Łukasz Dudek have made the first ascent of Premiere, a big new rock climb up the North Face of Cima Grande in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites, Italy.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°