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Laura Rogora climbing Pal Norte 8c+/9a at Margalef
Photo by Federico Frullani
Chris Sharma carrying out the first ascent of "Demencia Senil" 9a+, the first route of its grade at Margalef, Spain.
Photo by Pete O'Donovan
Laura Rogora
Photo by Eddie Fowke / IFSC
Gabriele Moroni repeating Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef in Spain
Photo by archivio Gabriele Moroni

Laura Rogora and Gabriele Moroni end 2019 on a high at Margalef

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At Margalef in Spain Gabriele Moroni has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ while Laura Rogora has sent Pal Norte 8c+/9a.

After Stefano Carnati’s repeat of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef and Stefano Ghisolfi’s redpoint of Stoking the Fire 9b at Santa Linya, two other Italian climbers - Gabriele Moroni and Laura Rogora - have ended 2019 on a high note.

Like many other climbers, both are currently spending the festive season in Spain, at Margalef to be precise, where the 18-year-old from Rome sent the 8c+/9a Pal Norte two days ago high up in the Raco de lei Espadelles sector. Rogora is taking a well-deserved break from her training routine after qualifying for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games and her ascent of Pal Norte came about on her second day in Spain, after having tried the route 3 times last year. Her subsequent repeat of the 8c Espiadimonis is a mere formality.

At almost exactly the same time 32-year-old Moroni managed to send Demencia Senil, the bulging 9a+ at the Laboratori sector freed in 2009 by Chris Sharma. Moroni had attempted this route at the start of 2015 and despite getting close to the send was forced to desist; four years down the line, his redpoint demonstrates an enviable focus and consistency.

TOPO: climbing at the crag Margalef in Spain

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