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Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
19/11/2018 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni frees his Cosmic Energy, a possible 9a+ at Bilico, Dolomites
At the crag Bilico (Primiero, Dolomites) Alessandro Zeni has made the first ascent of Energia Cosmica, Cosmic Energy, a sports climb the 27-year-old has now tentatively graded 9a+.
Dolomites steep skiing: big first ski descent of Croda Marcora SW Face
Dolomites steep skiing: big first ski descent of Croda Marcora SW Face
On 07/05/2018 Francesco Vascellari, Marco Gasperin, Loris De Barba and Tiziano Canal made the probable first descent of the impressive south-west face of Croda Marcora, Sorapis, Dolomites.
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
12/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It at Smith Rock, America’s first 8c+
Czech climber Adam Ondra has made an onsight ascent of Just Do It, the first 5.14c (8c+) in the USA located at Smith Rock, freed by French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1992.
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Jernej and Julia Kruder cruise Mallorca’s Deep Water Solo
29/10/2018 - Climbing
Jernej and Julia Kruder cruise Mallorca’s Deep Water Solo
Jernej Kruder and his sister Julia from Slovenia have made a series of difficult DWS deep water solo ascents on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
16/09/2018 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
On Friday night at Innsbruck in Austria Janja Garnbret from Slovenia was crowned Boulder World Champion. Akiyo Noguchi from Japan took silver, Staša Gejo from Serbia bronze. The men's competition was won on Saturday night by Japan's Kai Harada, ahead of Jongwon Chon from South Kore and Gregor Vezonik from...
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
14/09/2018 - Alpinism
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse provides details about the climbing expedition to the little-known Thagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan together with Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Two virgin 6000ers were climbed, while Maynadier was struck by rockfall and airlifted to safety.
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
04/09/2018 - Climbing
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
Alan Carne, Calum Cunningham and Robbie Phillips have made the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
03/09/2018 - Climbing
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
Up the Sa Costa ‘e Aidu rock face at Baunei in Sardinia, Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu have made the first ascent of Atlantide, 400 meters of plaisir climbing with difficulties up to 6a+.

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