Home page Planetmountain.com
Toula glacier accident (Mont Blanc): the French mountain rescue helicopter arrives at the accident site
Photo by Ezio Marlier
Toula glacier accident (Mont Blanc): the mountain rescuer being lowered into the crevasse
Photo by Ezio Marlier
Toula glacier accident (Mont Blanc): first aid before being flown to hospital
Photo by Ezio Marlier

Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports


Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide Armando Chanoine, first reached the accident site.

Last Saturday, October 13th, my climbing partner Paolo Celesia and I were heading back to the Torino hut. As usual, there were a lot of people close to the refuge: children, people in moon boots... all completely unroped and without any climbing gear whatsoever. On the other side of Col de Flambeaux, all the way to Aiguille Marbrées even. This means a few hundred meters, half a kilometer even, of off-limits terrain. At Rifugio Torino there are lots of warning signs and barriers, and people have to scramble over them to get passed.

All of this though isn’t enough to stop them. Moreover, the worst thing was that when we finally got close to the hut, after having shouted at these people to warn them about the danger they were in, after reaching yet another “f you”, suddenly a lady reached us, shouting that someone had fallen into a crevasse. At that point the Torino hut warden, Armando Chanoine, who is also a mountain guide of the Courmayeur Mountain Guides Association, asked me to join him to see what had happened.

We quickly set off and and just beyond the Flambeaux col, inside a crevasse, 20 meters deep, there was a person. A person who hadn’t ventured out onto the glacier alone, but with 3 other friends. So 4 in total, each about 25 years old, in sneakers, without a worry in the world, going for a hike among the crevasses. Unfortunately it had snowed in the previous days. Not much, just a couple of centimetres, but the wind had covered the crevasses a little and one of these guys had ended falling down for 20 meters.

Of course there was not much we could do, so we immediately called the French Mountain Rescue, because we were in French territory. Six members of the Chamonix Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne arrived by helicopter with tripod and winch to rescue the victim. It must be said that he was “lucky", because he had only fallen 20 meters... Currently he is in Sallanches hospital in serious but stable condition.

I’m recounting all of this because despite all the signs, all the barriers and other warnings, people continue to walk across this terrain. Obviously without the necessary gear and training. In fact, most don’t even know theyre on a glacier or what this means and involves. And I can guarantee that a few hundred meters from the hut, along the tracks that lead to Marbrées and Flambeaux, there are gaping crevasses. I’m amazed that with all these people ignoring the warnings, up until today there has only been one accident...

by Ezio Marlier - Alpine Guide


NEWS / Related news:
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë and more.
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first asscent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.




Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer