Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first asscent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.
![]() On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first ascent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta. The two describe Bocconi amari as being a beautiful mixed line which ascends narrow gullies, difficult rock and thin ice. Protection is demanding and few and far between and the face is solitary and isolated. Marlier, who waited ten years for the route to come into perfect condition, is one of Italy's most prolific ice climbers, while Libera received national recognition last week for his ascents and his approach to mountaineering when he was awarded the prestigious Grignetta d'oro, together with Rolando Larcher. MONTE EMILIUS (3559m), North Face via BOCCONI AMARI F.A.: Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26/10/2006 Length: 400m Description: beautiful and super demanfing mixed route: gullies, difficult rock, thin ice, protection demangin on compact rock, often of dubious quality and run-out. Isolated and solitary environment, psychologically highly demanding. Getting there: from Aosta reach the famous Pila ski station. Park the car at the cable car top station, follow the path that leads to the Chamolè alpine meados to reach Col Fenêtre and descend into the beautiful and uncontaminated Comboè valley. Follow the steep long path to Federigo (3.5 hours from Pila). From the bivouac descend into the Arpisson valley towards Col Peccoz, coasting along the north face to reach the start of the route (1 hour from the bivouac). Start: next to a gully on the extreme right of the black triangle bergschrund. Descent: abseil down the route (check belays)
Top: Ezio Marlier in action on "Bocconi amari" (arch. E. Marlier e R. Libera). |
|||
Latest news
Expo / News
Expo / Products
An ultralight two-person tent for trekking and biking.
Climbing Technology Climbing Technology Altimate - harness for ski touring and technical mountaineering
Innovative double configuration modular harness designed for ski touring and technical mountaineering.
Crash pad for bouldering and climbing
A full-Zip Hoody for cool, high-output days when you need a compressible, stretchy, featherlight insulated layer.
The Guida HDry gloves are the evolution of the Guida model, enhanced with HDry technology, making them ideal for all weather conditions.
Rockwall 20 climbing backpack designed for multipitch climbs, one-day mountain ascents or on via ferrata.