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Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
16/09/2018 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
On Friday night at Innsbruck in Austria Janja Garnbret from Slovenia was crowned Boulder World Champion. Akiyo Noguchi from Japan took silver, Staša Gejo from Serbia bronze. The men's competition was won on Saturday night by Japan's Kai Harada, ahead of Jongwon Chon from South Kore and Gregor Vezonik from...
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
14/09/2018 - Alpinism
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
11/09/2018 - Alpinism
Thagas Valley / Nicolas Favresse reports of Karakorum climbing expedition
Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse provides details about the climbing expedition to the little-known Thagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan together with Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Two virgin 6000ers were climbed, while Maynadier was struck by rockfall and airlifted to safety.
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
04/09/2018 - Climbing
Blood Moon, Brits climb new route up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
Alan Carne, Calum Cunningham and Robbie Phillips have made the first ascent of Blood Moon (8a+, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
03/09/2018 - Climbing
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
Up the Sa Costa ‘e Aidu rock face at Baunei in Sardinia, Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu have made the first ascent of Atlantide, 400 meters of plaisir climbing with difficulties up to 6a+.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa Express clocked up by Denis Trento and Robert Antonioli
Denis Trento talks about his fast raid in the Monte Rosa massif together with Robert Antonioli across the peaks Lyskamm, Colle del Lys, Punta Dufour and Punta Zumstein.
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.
Eiger Odyssee repeated by Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee repeated by Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher
Climbing ground-up and in a single push, Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Odyssee, the difficult alpine outing up the Eiger completed in 2015 by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl.
Miho Nonaka and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup 2018
20/08/2018 - Competitions
Miho Nonaka and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup 2018
Japan's Miho Nonaka and Slovenia’s Jernej Kruder won the Boulder World Cup 2018. The last stage took place in Munich last weekend and was won by the Slovenians Janja Garnbret and Gregor Vezonik.
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
14/08/2018 - Climbing
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
Swiss climber Nina Caprez talks about her recent trip to Lebanon where she joined up with the non-profit organisation ClimbAID to bring climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebanese youth affected by the war.
Daniel Jung reaps first repeat of Recovery drink, Favresse's difficult crack climb in Norway
10/08/2018 - Climbing
Daniel Jung reaps first repeat of Recovery drink, Favresse's difficult crack climb in Norway
German climber Daniel Jung has made the first repeat of Recovery drink, the difficult trad climb on the Profilveggen wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. First ascended in 2013 by Nicolas Favresse, the route had foiled some of the best crack climbers in the world.

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