Home page Planetmountain.com
Ezio Marlier making the first ascent of Albice in Valle di Ollomont, Valle d'Aosta, with Alberto Pierotti
Photo by Ezio Marlier
Ezio Marlier making the first ascent of Albice in Valle di Ollomont, Valle d'Aosta, with Alberto Pierotti
Photo by Ezio Marlier
Ezio Marlier making the first ascent of Albice in Valle di Ollomont, Valle d'Aosta, with Alberto Pierotti
Photo by Ezio Marlier
Climbing Rikiteppa in Valle di Ollomont, Valle d'Aosta (Ezio Marlier, Paolo Celesia)
Photo by Jordy Serrau Pou

Ezio Marlier adds two mixed climbs to Ollomont in Valle D'Aosta


At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports

Two of my new ice mixed climbs are located in the fantastic Glacier amphitheater high up in the Ollomont valley. This amphitheater continues to hold surprises in store, ever since being an important breeding ground for ice climbing development in Valle d’Aosta with calibre ice climbs such as SodomaGomorra, Oratorio, Pat-Gab, Gran Couloir. These drips are intrinsically linked to forerunners of Piolet traction such as Patrick Gabarrou and Alberto Cheraz, the latter being my mentor and brotherly friend with whom I shared so many ascents. Unfortunately we all "lost" Cheraz in an accident on Tour Ronde in 2009.

Glacier is also an amphitheater which, despite hosting a flurry of extremely beautiful routes, did not offer particularly difficult testpieces. Two remained unclimbed, and one of these two would probably have been a difficult nut to crack. On several occasions Alberto Cheraz and I said that we’d give it a go, unfortunately for us these words remained nothing but a promise!

Life is strange and like the valley holds surprise in store; a short time ago I noticed that the line had finally formed. What a great coup this would be for me to keep my promise! As luck would have it, a simple phone call resulted in me driving up the street at Ollomont. And as luck had it, I was with another great friend called Alberto: Alberto Pierotti. We’ve had our share of frights in the past and this turned out to another one. But we’re a tried and tested team and we managed to establish this line onsight! That’s how Albice came about.

From down below I reckoned Albice would be harder ... but that's fine. The route clims to the left of Pat & Gab. The first part, after a mixed pitch, tackles a step line of fragile and thin drips to reach the final pitch. This breaches the roof via a leftwards trending crack to reach a hanging drip. Apart from a peg on the last pitch and some slings on the tree for the abseil, we left no gear insitu!

We called the second route Rikiteppa and this is located a little further to the left, or rather, immediately to the left of the magnificent Sodoma icefall! Paolo Celesia happened to be in the right place at the right time: we’d actually intended on repeating Sodoma but it was being climbed by some Spaniards and seeing that that this alternative had come into condition... we decided to try it!

After the first 10 meters I turned to Paul and clearly stated that our ride hadn’t been particularly brilliant! What should have been a relatively tranquil day transformed into an epic 40m battle! In the end though Rikiteppa saw the light. Riki is the nickname of Paul’s son, while Teppa in the local dialect means rascal, and is often used to describe "mischievous" children…

Ezio Marlier - UIAGM international mountain guide

TOPO: Albice, Anfiteatro di Glacier, Valle di Ollomont

TOPO: Rikiteppa, Anfiteatro di Glacier, Valle di Ollomont

Ezio thanks: CAMP - Cassin, Crazy Idea, Elbec, Mtbness, Movement Ski

Links: FB Ezio Marlier


NEWS / Related news:
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide Armando Chanoine, first reached the accident site.
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
Mixed solo climbs by Ezio Marlier in Alps
Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first asscent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.
Orco Valley new routes
At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), "Tatanka" (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and "Tomawauk Dance" (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).
Marlier and Farina make FA of Matador on Mont Blanc du Tacul
On 14/04/2004 Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina made the first ascent of Matador, a new mixed line up the east face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Saint-Ours II 6, M6 for Marlier, Chenal and M. Farina
Ezio Marlier, Francesca Chenal and Marco Farina have made the first ascent of "Saint-Ours" II 6, M6, at Fenille, Valsavarenche, Valle d'Aosta.




Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
Via delle Rosine, prima discesa, #iorestoacasa
Federico Ravassard Outdoor Photography