Orco Valley new routes

At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), Tatanka (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and Tomawauk Dance (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).

PlanetMountain.com

October 2004

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At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell'Orco (Italy).

The first is called "Tatanka" (270m, max 7c, 6c obl.), and is situated on the Parete del serpente di legno. It takes a direct line through the series of roofs avoided by the routes climbed by Bechaud on the left and Mochino on the right.

The second, "Tomawauk Dance" (165m, max 7c, 7a obl.) climbs the grandose wall on the Caporal, to the left of the famous Nanchez corner. According to the two this route is "extraordinarily beautiful, both for the climbing style and the quality of the rock". Significantly harder than "Tatanka", "Tomawauk Dance" offers 5 extremely beautiful pitches, all different one from the other. The 2nd tackles large flake to reach a pumpy overhanging corner (7c), the 3rd climbs a fantastic slab (7a), the 4th a technical corner followed by hard technical slab moves (7c), and the 5th a slab and bouldery arete (7b+/c)...

Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Serpente di legno
TATANKA
F.A.: Massimo Farina, Ezio Marlier (09/2004); F.F.A. Massimo Farina (09/2004).
Length: 165m
Grade: max 7c, 6c obbl
Gear: two 60m ropes. The route is equipped with bolts, nevertheless take a set of small friends and nuts.

Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Caporal
TOMAWAUK DANCE
F.A.: Massimo Farina, Ezio Marlier (09/2004);F.F.A. Massimo Farina (09/2004).
Length: 270m
Grade: max 7c, 7a obbl
Gear: two 60m ropes. The route is equipped with bolts, nevertheless take a set of small friends and nuts.