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Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in...
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
26/12/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing / Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer swing up Sonnentanz in Langental
In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco...
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express,...
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson cast their Forge in Scotland
06/12/2018 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson cast their Forge in Scotland
Scottish mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of The Forge X/10 at An Teallach in NNW Scotland.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was...
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
21/11/2018 - Climbing
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
Connor Herson has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Climbing with his father Jim Herson over a three-day period, Connor is one of the few climbers to achieve this feat. Aged only 15, he...
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
08/11/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli has made the first ascent of Airplane Mode up the North Face of the Eiger.
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
06/11/2018 - Climbing
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
Austria's Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have both repeated Tainted Love, the 5.13d crack climb located on The Chief above Squamish, Canada freed by Hazel Findlay in 2017.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
02/11/2018 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Sangre de Toro on Rote Wand in Austria
Austria’s Barbara Zangerl has made a rare repeat of the 8b+ multi-pitch climb Sangre de Toro up Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirge, freed by Alex Luger in 2014.
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
31/10/2018 - Interviews
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
Interview with French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz after having completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.

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