Lena Marie Müller repeats Prinzip Hoffnung, Beat Kammerlander’s perfect trad climb at Bürs

Lena Müller from Germany has added her name to the growing list of climbers capable of sending 8b/+ trad with her repeat of Beat Kammerlander’s 2009 manifesto Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria.

The 28-year-old PhD student at Innsbruck University attempted the route for the first time only 6 weeks ago and sent it, placing all the gear on lead, just the other day after climbing partner Johannes Ingrisch clocked up a repeat, too. Müller is now the fourth woman to repeat the route after Barbara Zangerl (2014), Nadine Wallner (2019) and Madeleine Cope (2019).

Interestingly, Müller’s hardest trad ascent had been the classic 8a pump-fest Mustang at Cadarese in Italy, while her hardest sport route is 8a+, making Prinzip Hoffnung her hardest climb of all. It is also interesting to note that she almost always travelled from Innsbruck to Bürs by train. Extremely fitting since her doctoral thesis is in climate change.

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Prinzip Hoffnung (8b/+ E9/10) A dream come true! I have so much to say about this route and the process, but now I first have to let it sink in! @johannes.ingrisch for our shared journey and your endless support! Would have never been possible without you! So proud of you sending as well! Thanks to the people supporting me and to @kammerlander_beat for establishing this route. Honored to be the 4th women after @babsizangerl @nadinewallner & @madeleine_cope to climb this beauty @johannes.ingrisch #tradclimbing #prinziphoffnung #tradisrad

A post shared by Lena Marie Müller (@lenamarie.mllr) on Feb 29, 2020 at 12:02pm PST