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K2 Winter, Tamara Lunger joins attempt of historic first winter ascent
23/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Tamara Lunger joins attempt of historic first winter ascent
South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger announced a two days ago that she too will attempt to climb K2 in winter. The second highest mountain in the world is the last 8000er unclimbed during the harshest season.
Emily Harrington climbing Golden Gate / Behind the scenes on El Capitan
18/12/2020 - Climbing
Emily Harrington climbing Golden Gate / Behind the scenes on El Capitan
On November 3rd, 2020, Emily Harrington climbed Golden Gate on El Cazpitan in Yosemite all free in a single day. This is a behind the scenes look at her send.
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
16/12/2020 - Climbing
Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze
Italian boulderer Niccolò Ceria has made the fourth ascent of Gioia at Varazze, the boulder problem established by Christian Core in 2008, graded 8C+ and hitherto repeated by only Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival.
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
10/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland
Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
04/12/2020 - Alpinism
Aaron Durogati and Simon Gietl climb & fly Mount Rauchkofel North Face
On 29/11/2020 Simon Gietl and Aaron Durogati made the first ascent of a new 500m route on the hitherto unclimbed north face of Mount Rauchkofel in the South Tyrol, Italy. After the ascent, the two climbers paraglided back down to valley. Durogati reports about this latest paralpinism adventure.
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent with Piero Onorati.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile
Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
28/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Fred Rouhling’s De l’autre Côté du Ciel
French rock climber Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of another Fred Rouhling 1990’s testpiece, De l’autre Côté du Ciel at Les Eaux Claires.
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Fred Rouhling's Akira finally repeated after 25 years by Sébastien Bouin, Lucien Martinez
Akira, the famous sport climb established by Fred Rouhling in 1995, has finally been repeated for the first time by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez. According to the two young Frenchmen the route is a difficult 9a, and not 9b as suggested by Rouhling 25 years ago.
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
23/11/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora repeats The Bow 9a+ at Arco, Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller send 8c+
Yesterday at Padaro in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora claimed the first repeat of The Bow, a 9a+ established in July by Stefano Ghisolfi. Julia Chanourdie and Eva Hammelmüller for their part have both repeated 8c+.
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
22/11/2020 - Competitions
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
Ekaterina Barashchuk from Russia and Danyil Boldyrev from the Ukraine were crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow, Russia, yesterday after beating Elizaveta Ivanov and Lev Rudatskiy. The bronze medal was won by Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski. Kaplina set a new Speed World Record in the qualification round, stopping the...
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé Action Directe trailer
The trailer of the film that documents Melissa Le Nevé making the first female ascent of Action Directe, the world’s most revered 9a put up by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.

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