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Iain Small making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland, December 2020
Photo by Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod and Iain Small making the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland, December 2020
Photo by Iain Small
Dave MacLeod and Iain Small at the top of their mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland, December 2020
Photo by Dave MacLeod, Iain Small

Dave MacLeod, Iain Small establish Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland

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Scottish climbers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Nevermore on Ben Nevis, Scotland.

Formidable Scottish mountaineers Dave MacLeod and Iain Small have, somewhat surprisingly, added a plumb mixed climb to Ben Nevis, the quintessential winter climbing area in Scotland. The duo climbed a three-pitch outing on Number Five Gully Buttress called Nevermore which tackles a steep corner capped by an overhang and hard bulges graded VIII,8 before reaching easier terrain.

The significant new addition comes as a surprise as it is located not on a remote part of the Ben but on Number Five Gully Buttress, above the long traverse at the start of the famous Ledge Route often used by beginngers to reach the top of the mountain. Equally unexpected is the fact that the line had never been climbed before in summer.

Writing to planetmountain.com, 42-year-old MacLeod stated "It's a good line that a lot of folk had an eye on. It gets the sun later in the season and tends to strip so its not that often rimed up. It really is surprising it's not been done in summer, especially as there are other routes just to the left."

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