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Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
 Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
23/02/2017 - Alpinism
Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.
San Vito lo Capo climbing: Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo ascend November Sun
08/02/2017 - Climbing
San Vito lo Capo climbing: Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo ascend November Sun
In November 2016 Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo established 'November Sun' (7b, obligatory 7a, 270m), a new multi-pitch rock climb on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily, Italy.
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
06/02/2017 - Alpinism
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
01/02/2017 - Alpinism
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
19/01/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
13/01/2017 - Alpinism
Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli
Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.
 All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
10/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
26/12/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher: interview after climbing Free Zodiac up El Capitan, Yosemite
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Pete Whittaker / Climbing interview after all-free rope-solo up El Capitan in a day
08/12/2016 - Interviews
Pete Whittaker / Climbing interview after all-free rope-solo up El Capitan in a day
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker who at the start of November 2016 made a rope solo and all free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, in just over 20 hours. In doing so he has become the first person to climb Yosemite’s monolith in this style...

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