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Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct use of belay devices) and requires help and awareness from...
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
04/09/2015 - Climbing
Della Funivia, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino
In September 2014 Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel made the first ascent of Della Funivia (7c, 300m), a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
19/08/2015 - Climbing
Croux, rock climbing in Valgrisenche, Italy
Luca Bastia introduces Croux, in Valgrisenche, the beautiful crag Valle d’Aosta, ideal for rock climbing on hot summer days.
The visible gem, on Sass d'Ortiga in the Dolomites
24/07/2015 - Alpinism
The visible gem, on Sass d'Ortiga in the Dolomites
Ivo Ferrari repeats "9 agosto", the climb on Sass d'Ortiga in the Pale di San Martino Dolomites put up by Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto in 2003. A route to get off the beaten track.
Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon
16/07/2015 - Interviews
Nina Caprez and Marc le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez who, together with Marc le Menestrel, repeated Hannibals Alptraum, the smooth limestone testpiece first climbed in 1986 by Martin Scheel and Robert Bösch in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif.
Lucertolaia, the rock climb on Lastoni of Formin, Dolomites
13/07/2015 - Climbing
Lucertolaia, the rock climb on Lastoni of Formin, Dolomites
The route topo for Lucertolaia (280 meters VIII. 7a +, obligatory VIII.), established between 2012 and 2013 on Lastoni di Formin in the Dolomites by Daniele Geremia, Enrico Geremia, Dario Segato and Maurizio Fontana.
Andi Hammerstingl & Xaver Mayr add 4 Gewinnt to Pantherkopf, Wetterstein
15/06/2015 - Alpinism
Andi Hammerstingl & Xaver Mayr add 4 Gewinnt to Pantherkopf, Wetterstein
On 5 June 2015 German climbers Xaver Mayr and Andi Hammerstingl made the first free ascent of 4 Gewinnt, their new route up the South Face of Pantherkopf in the Wetterstein massif, Austria.
Vento di passioni, new rock climb on Monte Colodri
12/06/2015 - Climbing
Vento di passioni, new rock climb on Monte Colodri
Stefano Michelazzi talks about Vento di passioni (7-, A1), a new multi-pitch rock climb established with Marco Ghidini on Monte Colodri, Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy).
Reequipping with 'marine' gear in Sardinia by Louis Piguet
11/06/2015 - Climbing
Reequipping with 'marine' gear in Sardinia by Louis Piguet
Maurizio Oviglia shares the information, provided by Louis Piguet, about the Swissman’s recent rebolting of some sport climbs in Sardinia located at the Buggerru sea cliff and at Cala Fuii (Cala Gonone).

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