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Alpine climbs in China by Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini
19/11/2014 - Alpinism
Alpine climbs in China by Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini
In October 2014 Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini carried out a series of alpine ascents in the Minya Konka massif, Sichuan, China.
Via del Trenino above Passo San Giovanni, Arco
12/11/2014 - Alpinism
Via del Trenino above Passo San Giovanni, Arco
Via del Trenino and the climbing above Passo San Giovanni (Arco), put up in 1986 by Giampaolo Calzà Trota, Rino Zanotti and Andrea Zucchelli and recently re-equipped by Calzà and Danny Zampiccoli.
Clean Climb, new route on Monte Nero by Giovanni Ghezzi and Demis Lorenzi
05/11/2014 - Alpinism
Clean Climb, new route on Monte Nero by Giovanni Ghezzi and Demis Lorenzi
On 2 November 2014 Giovanni Ghezzi and Demis Lorenzi made the first ascent of Clean Climb (IV/M4+, 480m), a new mixed route up Monte Nero, Adamello – Presanella group, Italian Alps.
Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
30/10/2014 - Alpinism
Combe Maudite, two new ice and mixed climbs by Enrico Bonino & Co
On Combe Maudite, in the Mont Blanc massif, two new ice and mixed routes have been climbed, Saumons et Glacons (M5+ WI5 R, 500m, Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye) and An... ice surprise (M7, W15, A1+, III, 350m Enrico Bonino, Giulia Venturelli). Report by Enrico Bonino.
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
30/10/2014 - Climbing
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
Monte Brione, Arco: Via Giopia. By Paolo Calzà
23/10/2014 - Climbing
Monte Brione, Arco: Via Giopia. By Paolo Calzà
Via Giopia, the beautiful aid climb up the NW Face of Monte Brione close to Arco, first climbed in 1990 by Paolo Calzà, Lino Celva and Mauro Giovanazzi and recently reequipped by Danny Zampiccoli and Calzà who shares the story of the route, dedicated to his friends Mauro Giovanazzi and...
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
06/10/2014 - Alpinism
Giù la testa, new Lagorai rock climb, Dolomites
The report by Peter Moser about Giù la testa (350m VIII / VIII+), a difficult new trad rock climb first ascended in 2014 in the Lagorai group, Dolomites, together with Thomas Ballerin, Iwan Canins and Roberto Ronzani.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
16/09/2014 - Alpinism
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first...
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...

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