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New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
11/09/2019 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Camillo Bussolati reports about the first ascent of Lloverà y yo verè, a new rock climb up the west face of Petit Mont Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif, established in summer 2019 with Matteo Castellini and Francesco Crescini.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the ascents honoured by the Piolet d’Or 2019.The press release of...
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
21/08/2019 - Alpinism
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
The mountain guides Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner have made the first ascent of Zeitsprung, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Große Zinne / Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Neunerspitze, Fanis, Dolomites: Kofler, Gietl and Wenter shine on Somnium
01/08/2019 - Alpinism
Neunerspitze, Fanis, Dolomites: Kofler, Gietl and Wenter shine on Somnium
On Mt. Neunerspitze (Sasso delle Nove) in the Fanes group of the Dolomites, Michael Kofler, Manuel Gietl and Florian Wenter have completed the first ascent of Somnium, a new multi-pitch rock climb with difficulties up to 7a. Kofler reports.
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.
Huanka Punta, another Peru master climb by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
24/07/2019 - Alpinism
Huanka Punta, another Peru master climb by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Spanish mountaineers Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have established Cabeza Clava, a multi-pitch rock climb up Huanka Punta in the SE part of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
20/07/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez flys up Grand Capucin Voie Petit
Swiss climber Nina Caprez has made a fast repeat of Voie Petit, up Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc. Established in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit, this 450m 8b multi-pitch was freed by Alexander Huber in 2005.
Christoph Hainz adds new climb to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
18/07/2019 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz adds new climb to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On the south face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Christoph Hainz and Gerda Schwienbacher have established Via Grohmann - Hainz, a big new rock climb timed to celebrate the first ascent the mountain carried out 150 years ago, on 21 August 1869 by the Austrian mountaineer Paul Grohmann together...
Cima Grostè, new Brenta Dolomites rock climb by Francesco Salvaterra, Nicola Castagna
11/07/2019 - Climbing
Cima Grostè, new Brenta Dolomites rock climb by Francesco Salvaterra, Nicola Castagna
Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Castagna have made the first ascent of Via Greta, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the south face of Cima Grostè in the Brenta Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the south face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini add new climb to Mittlere Kasten in Austria
25/06/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini add new climb to Mittlere Kasten in Austria
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Alles im Kasten, a five-pitch climb up Mittlere Kasten close to Klas in the Hoher Tauern massif in Austria.
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.