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Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
06/11/2018 - Climbing
Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven tick Tainted Love at Squamish in Canada
Austria's Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have both repeated Tainted Love, the 5.13d crack climb located on The Chief above Squamish, Canada freed by Hazel Findlay in 2017.
Adam Ondra almost onsights Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
05/11/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra almost onsights Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
Czech rock climber Adam Ondra has attempted but only just failed to onsight the Salathé Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
09/10/2018 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face climbed by Nikolaj Niebuhr, Danish mountaineer with hemiplegia
Paraclimbing: Nikolaj Niebuhr has repeated the classic Bettega - Tomasson climb up the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. This ascent marks an important moment for the 35-year-old Dane who, following an operation for cerebral edema aged 8, has been partially paralysed in the righthand side of his body.
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Perfect Storm, big new climb on Mont Blanc by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
23/08/2018 - Alpinism
Perfect Storm, big new climb on Mont Blanc by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of Perfect Storm, a new 700m climb established together with Michael Rinn over 8 days up Pointe Louis Amédé on the Miage Face on the Italian side of Mont Blanc (4807 m).
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
14/08/2018 - Climbing
Tolerance by Nina Caprez
Swiss climber Nina Caprez talks about her recent trip to Lebanon where she joined up with the non-profit organisation ClimbAID to bring climbing to Syrian refugees and Lebanese youth affected by the war.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
01/08/2018 - Interviews
Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland
Interview with German alpinist Robert Jasper who is currently on a by fair means solo climbing trip to Greenland.
Climbing Oscars to Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges at the Arco Rock Legends 2018
30/07/2018 - Events
Climbing Oscars to Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges at the Arco Rock Legends 2018
On Friday, 27th July 2018 the coveted Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafi was awarded to Reinhold Messner during the 13th Arco Rock Legends awards. Adam Ondra won the Wild Country Rock Award and Romain Desgranges the La Sportiva Competition Award. The other candidates were Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Janja...
Ciao Monica
18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica
Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...

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