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Marcin Dzienski, Iuliia Kaplina crowned European Speed Climbing Champions
01/07/2017 - Competitions
Marcin Dzienski, Iuliia Kaplina crowned European Speed Climbing Champions
Last night at Campitello di Fassa, Italy, Marcin Dzienski (POL) and Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) won the European Championship Speed. Italy’s Ludovico Fossali placed fourth.
Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell: three climbers at American Senate
12/05/2017 - Environment
Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell: three climbers at American Senate
In order to protect America’s National Monuments, yesterday the climbers Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell traveled to Capitol Hill in Washington together with Libby Sauter and Kai Lightner where they voiced their concerns with the American Senate.
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
09/05/2017 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz cleans up Der Fluch der Kamine at Sass dai Tamersc, Dolomites
On the South Face of Sass dai Tamersc Christoph Hainz has reequipped Der Fluch der Kamine (VII-, 390m). According to mountain guide from the South Tyrol this climb 'has the potential to become a classic rock climb' in the Italian Dolomites.
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
08/05/2017 - Alpinism
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
Ueli Steck's dream
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Sport climbing at Lula, the new crag in Sardinia
18/04/2017 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Lula, the new crag in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new crag Coa ‘e Littu at Lula in Barbagia, the mountainous region of central Sardinia.
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
14/04/2017 - Interviews
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after the first free ascent of Gondo Crack at the crag Cippo in Switzerland. The duo freed the route as an 8c sport climb and then did without the bolts and climbed the route with nuts and friends to produce one of the...
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
Grandes Jorasses Pointe Whymper / Denis Trento skis SW Couloir
At the end of March 2017 Denis Trento made what might well be the first integral ski descent of the SW Couloir of Pointe Whymper. The video and report of the Italian mountain guide and extreme skier about this ski descent which, in particular the final 400m, has probably never...
Margo Hayes / the La Rambla Siurana climbing interview
27/03/2017 - Climbing
Margo Hayes / the La Rambla Siurana climbing interview
Interview with American climber Margo Hayes who on 26 February 2017 became the first woman to climb 9a+ with her ascent of La Rambla at the crag Siurana in Catalonia, Spain.
Barbara Zangerl climbs 8c+ at Siurana in Spain
08/03/2017 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs 8c+ at Siurana in Spain
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has redpointed Chikane, her first 8c+ sports climb, at the Spanish crag Siurana.
Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
22/02/2017 - Alpinism
Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love
Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
14/02/2017 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti archive acquired by Turin Mountain Museum
In October 2016 the Turin-based Mountain Museum acquired the archive of Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti; a immense treasure that still needs to be catalogued, studied and archived for the history of mountaineering and more.
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
30/01/2017 - Alpinism
Vanessa robe neire, new mixed climb in Valle dell’Orco
Winter mountaineering in Italy’s Piedmont region: in Valle Orco Marco Appino and Umberto Bado, together with David Sacchetti, completed Vanessa neire robe, a mixed climb they had begun in 2010. Umberto Bado provides the report.
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
17/01/2017 - Alpinism
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.
Forest fires in Chironico and across Southern Switzerland
02/01/2017 - Environment
Forest fires in Chironico and across Southern Switzerland
During the last few days various forest fires broke out across southern Switzerland, for reasons yet to be determined. Over three dozen people were evacuated, but thankfully no one was injured. Local climber Martin Keller reports from the world-famous bouldering area Chironico, where a fire lit by teenagers got out...