Winter climbing in the Orobie Alps / New mixed route in Valle di Trona

At the start of every winter I venture out into my backyard Orobie mountains, a fascinating playground just waiting to be discovered. And this is how I happened to stumble across a fantastic line on the fore-summit of Mount Stanislao peak above Lake Zancone in Valle Trona. I was with a client of mine, and old friend, Attilio, when it sprang into view. I pointed it out to Attilio, who immediately replied "surely you don’t want to take me there?"

"No no, don’t worry, I’ve got just the right partner for this one."

And so two days later legendary Benigno Balatti and I started up this beautiful drip. After almost 3 hours in temperatures down to -12°C we topped out onto the summit plateau, having climbed past some thin mixed sections and up dry, glassy ice. This was our Christmas present.

We dedicated the climb to Holly, Ben’s little dog who passed on into a better life after 17 faithful years…

by Cristian Candiotto 

TOPO: Via Holly, Valle di Trona