683 News found

19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

19/11/2016 - Alpinism
Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.

24/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in South Georgia On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount Baume, one of the highest unclimbed peaks on the island.

06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).

30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.

01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.

31/08/2016 - Alpinism
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.

29/08/2016 - Climbing
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb is believed to currently be the only route up the...

29/08/2016 - Climbing
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites The 'Crags for each season' project in collaboration with Vertical-Life.info continues with Stube, the new crag in Itay's Höhlensteintal / Val di Landro (Dolomites)

27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.

27/08/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016 awarded to Daniel Andrada, Mina Markovič and the IFSC On Friday 26/08/2016 the 11th Arco Rock Legends celebration took place in Arco, Italy during the 30th Rock Master. Daniel Andrada won the Wild Country Rock Award, while the La Sportiva Competition Award went to Mina Markovič. The other nominees were Jakob Schubert, Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra....

24/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the...

22/08/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: Climbing Ambassador 2016 awarded to the IFSC On 26 August 2016 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2016 prize will be awarded to the International Federation of Sport Climbing for the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Maria Scolaris, president of the IFSC since 2001, will...

18/08/2016 - Events
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016 On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll...
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