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Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl
19/11/2016 - Alpinism
Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl
On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
British first ascents in South Georgia
24/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in South Georgia
On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount Baume, one of the highest unclimbed peaks on the island.
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
31/08/2016 - Alpinism
Funding appeal for Scott Adamson & Kyle Dempster missing on Ogre 2, Pakistan
A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb is believed to currently be the only route up the...
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Stube, the new sport climbing crag in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites
The 'Crags for each season' project in collaboration with Vertical-Life.info continues with Stube, the new crag in Itay's Höhlensteintal / Val di Landro (Dolomites)
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco
Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
Arco Rock Legends 2016 awarded to Daniel Andrada, Mina Markovič and the IFSC
27/08/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016 awarded to Daniel Andrada, Mina Markovič and the IFSC
On Friday 26/08/2016 the 11th Arco Rock Legends celebration took place in Arco, Italy during the 30th Rock Master. Daniel Andrada won the Wild Country Rock Award, while the La Sportiva Competition Award went to Mina Markovič. The other nominees were Jakob Schubert, Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra....
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
24/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday
Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the...
Arco Rock Legends: Climbing Ambassador 2016 awarded to the IFSC
22/08/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: Climbing Ambassador 2016 awarded to the IFSC
On 26 August 2016 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2016 prize will be awarded to the International Federation of Sport Climbing for the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Maria Scolaris, president of the IFSC since 2001, will...
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
18/08/2016 - Events
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll...

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