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Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...
Stefano Carnati climbing Biographie at Céüse in France
23/01/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbing Biographie at Céüse in France
The video of Stefano Carnati climbing Biographie, Chris Sharma's 2001 masterpiece at Céüse in France.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
14/12/2019 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely on ice.
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
05/10/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of Mind Riot at Binnein Shuas in Scotland. Graded E10 7a, it stands as one of the most difficult trad climbs in the country.
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
02/10/2019 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Meltdown established rope solo by Robert Jasper
German mountain guide Robert Jasper has made a rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Fred Nicole and Giuliano Cameroni, two climbing legends send Legacy in Rocklands
17/09/2019 - Climbing
Fred Nicole and Giuliano Cameroni, two climbing legends send Legacy in Rocklands
At Rocklands in South Africa the Swiss climbers Giuliano Cameroni and Fred Nicole have both climbed Legacy, a 9a sports climb.
Sébastien Bouin tames La Rage d’Adam in Verdon Gorge
07/09/2019 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin tames La Rage d’Adam in Verdon Gorge
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of La Rage d’Adam in the Verdon Gorges. Graded 9b/+, this currently stands as one of the most difficult sport climbs in France.
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
16/08/2019 - Alpinism
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
14/07/2019 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo dials Biographie at Céüse in France
Spaniard Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated Biographie, the 9a+ at Ceuse freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as a benchmark for its grade
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
06/06/2019 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, a force of nature
Updates about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Guzel and Salavat Rakhmetov who in 2010 was seriously injured in a climbing accident in Turkey when she was 5 years old.

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