Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
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archivio Stefan Scarperi
This weekend, two of my friends and I decided to travel to the Maltatal. For those unfamiliar with this place, it’s a beautiful valley in Austria famous for rock climbing and ice climbing and, as far as I'm concerned, it contains two historic boulder problems.
The first is called Bügeleisen, an 8B+ established in 2001 by Klem Loskot while the second is Emotional Landscapes, an 8C put up in 2002 by Loskot once again.
On our first day we warmed up on a few problems then tried Bügeleisen. I’d already tried it two years ago in 25°C temps and couldn’t get close. This time things were different, conditions were excellent and after a few goes I managed to send.
Immediately afterwards I started to try the sit start, freed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014. It took me a while to do the starting moves, then when I got them wired unfortunately I couldn’t link into the stand.
On the other two days we decided to try some easier stuff and after a few attempts I managed to send the stand start to Emotional Landscapes. Another problem I’d always wanted to do was Wrestling with an alligator, another Loskot 8B dating back to 1999. Another boulderer explained all then moves and I decided to try to flash it. Everything ran smoothly and after a few seconds I topped this magnificent boulder. My first flash of this grade.
by Stefan Scarperi
Link: La Sportiva
