Stefan Scarperi climbs Bio-logiko 9a at Arco

Last Tuesday Stefan Scarperi, the 23-year-old South Tyrolean climber and recent winner of the Italian Bouldering Cup, redpointed Bio-logiko 9a at the crag Narango close to Arco. Bolted by Loris Manzana and freed in 2012 by Adam Ondra, this route starts with a difficult first 5 metres – reckoned to be 8A+ boulder – before continuing with 8b+ stamina climbing. The route has rapidly become established as a classic test for the upper realm, with repeats including the likes of Gabriele Moroni, Silvio Reffo and Stefano Ghisolfi. With this route Scarperi enters the ranks of those who have sent 9a and his redpoint is further confirmation of the healthy state of the young Italian sport climbing scene.

BIO-LOGIKO by Stefan Scarperi

I don't really know why I chose this route but everyone told me I simply had to go to Narango, so I first went with Severino Scassa who knows the Arco crags well. I immediately liked the route, my style of climbing, but there's a long reach in the second section and I had to work out some different beta.. In the end I redpointed it after 5 days of work spread out over the last two weeks, circa 15 attempts in total.