417 News found

In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.

Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb cram (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...

Himalayan climbing: French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot and Symon Welfringer have established Le Quattro à Cordes, a new route up Lobuche East (6120m) above the Khumbu valley in Nepal.

The Central Couloir of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.

Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...

Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...

Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.

Interview with Swiss alpinist Daniel Arnold who on 27/07/2018 climbed the Cassin route up Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif in a record-breaking 2 hours and 4 minutes.

Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.

On Friday, 27th July 2018 the coveted Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafi was awarded to Reinhold Messner during the 13th Arco Rock Legends awards. Adam Ondra won the Wild Country Rock Award and Romain Desgranges the La Sportiva Competition Award. The other candidates were Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Janja...

A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.

Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...

Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...