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Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across...
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 -...
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley...
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17 February Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille made the first ski descent of the Arête Charlet Straton on Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc Massif. Manners reports about the 5.4 line they have called 'Stratonspherique'.
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
22/12/2023 - Alpinism
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
Emanuele Andreozzi and Vaida Vaivadaite have established 'First Time', a spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta directly opposite the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
20/11/2023 - Climbing
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
Supported by climbing partner Karel Nováček, Michaela Izakovičová from Slovakia has made a free ascent of 'Golden Gate' on El Capitan in Yosemite. The 34-year-old from Bratislava provides the details of this classic big wall, established in September 2000 by German...
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on...
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
25/07/2023 - Alpinism
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites, Italy) Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch Back in Black.