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Laura Rogora making the first repeat of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+ and established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021, it is considered the most difficult sport climb in Italy. This is the first time a woman has climbed a route of this difficulty.

Photo by Overchalked
Laura Rogora preparing to climb Ali hulk sit extension total at Rodellar in Spain. In climbing this route she has become only the second woman in the world to climb 9b, after Angela Eiter
Photo by Marco Iacono
INFO / links & info:
    Laura Rogora outdoors
    12/2014 Ciccio Formaggio 8c Grotta dell’Aerenauta Sperlonga, repeat. Her first 8c aged 13.
    04/2015 Il Corvo 8c, Ferentillo, repeat
    02/2016 Grandi Gesti, 9a Sperlonga, repeat
    08/2016 Wallstreet 8c Frankenjura, Germany, repeat
    11/2016 Tomorrowland extension 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    12/2016 Supercrack 8b+/8c, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    01/2017 Joe Blau 8c+, Oliana, Spain, repeat
    01/2017 La Gasparata, 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    02/2017 Joe-cita 9a, Oliana, repeat
    03/2017 Ercole 8c/+, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    12/2017 It segid narg 8c+, Grotta dell'Arenauta Sperlonga, first ascent
    04/2018 Sitting Bull 8c+/9a, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    01/2019 Esclatamasters 9a, Perles, Spain, repeat
    06/2019 Rèveille-toi, 9a, Cueva di Collepardo, first ascent
    12/2019 Pal Norte 8c+/9a, Margalef, repeat
    01/2020 La Bongada 9a, Margalef, repeat
    01/2020 L-mens 8b+ Montsant, onsight
    03/2020 Corvo Morto 8c+/9a Ferentillo, first ascent
    05/2020 Riflessi and Terra Piatta, 8c, Monte Colt, both second go
    05/2020 Pure Dreaming, 9a, Massone, Arco, 9 attempts
    05/2020 Pure Dreaming Plus, 9a+, Massone, Arco
    07/2020 Ali hulk sit extension total, 9b, Rodellar, Spain
    04/2021 Terapia d'urto 9a+, Padaro, Arco, repeat
    10/2021 Erebor 9b/+, Eremo di San Paolo Arco, repeat

Laura Rogora: the 9b/+ Erebor exploit interview

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Interview with Laura Rogora after her first repeat of the 9b/+ Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo in Arco, Italy. With her It is the first time that a woman has climbed a route of this difficulty. Watch the uncut video of her ascent today at 16:00.

As reported, on Saturday 2 October Laura Rogora raised the bar of women's sport climbing with her redpoint of Erebor, a 9b/+ at Eremo di San Paolo on the outskirts of Arco, Italy. 9b had only been climbed three times previously, first by Angela Eiter in 2017 on La planta de shiva at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain, then by Rogora herself in July 2020 on Ali hulk sit extension total at Rodellar in Spain, and then in November 2020 by Julia Chanourdie on Eagle-4 at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France. This is therefore the first time that a woman has successfully negotiated a climb of this grade and what is astounding is not only the inordinate difficulty, but also the speed of her repeat - only 6 days in total. For the record, Stefano Ghisolfi who had established Erebor at the start of the year described the route as only slightly easier than Bibliographie at Ceuse…

Erebor. That’s absolutely amazing Laura! When did you start trying it? And, possibly a somewhat stupid question... why?
I tried it for the first time in March, I worked it for two days before the competition season started. And I decided to give it a go because I wanted to find a really tough project close to home.

So how did it go? We’ve seen the holds in Ghisolfi’s video, they seem non-existent ...
Actually on my first day I did all the individual moves, but there are practically no rests so it seemed quite impossible to me.

Did you use the same beta as Ghisolfi?
No I used very different sequences, as you’ll see later in the uncut video that will be put online later.

How did your attempts go? Did you always fall from the same moves?
Being an endurance-bases route without any good rests there was no particular section that caused me problems, no. Every attempt resulted in encouraging progress.

This year has been marked by an intense period of competitions, the Olympics, the World Cup, the World Championships in Moscow
Yes. And then when I returned from Russia I decided I wanted to go and try the route again. On the first day I looked at all the moves again, then I came back after a couple of days and I managed to do it with two only rests. The next time I needed only one rest. So knew I was close. I rested for a day and only did some easy routes in the gym, and the next day I sent!

That was quick!
Six days in total. Four now and two in March, with more or less three attempts per day.

Can you compare your performance on Erebor to Ali Hulk? They’re clearly two completely different climbs in terms of character and style, but what’s your gut feeling?
I think Erebor is more difficult, but Ali hulk was more of a mental challenge, because I was far from home and the climb has a lot more moves and rests that need to be managed properly.

And now? Knowing you, you’vel have already though about a new project
Actually not yet. But... stay tuned.

Before you mentioned that you’ll be publishing the uncut video of your ascent?
Yes, today at 16:00 on Youtube, on Mellow.

Link: FB Laura RogoraInstagram Laura RogoraCAMPWild Climb

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NEWS / Related news:
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Laura Rogora has made the first repeat of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+ and established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021, it is considered the most difficult sport climb in Italy. This is the first time a woman has climbed a route of this difficulty.

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