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Julia Chanourdie at Saint Léger du Ventoux on 7 November 2020 where with her ascent of Eagle-4 she has become the third woman in the world to climb 9b after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora.
Photo by Julia Chanourdie archive

Julia Chanourdie climbs 9b, third woman after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora

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Yesterday at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France Julia Chanourdie climbed Eagle-4, becoming only the third woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter and Laura Rogora.

After Angela Eiter in 2017 and Laura Rogora last summer, yesterday 24-year-old French professional climber Julia Chanourdie became the third woman in the world to climb 9b with her redpoint of Eagle-4 at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France. The route was freed in 2018 by Adam Onda nel 2018 shortly before his historic world’s first 9a+ flash, and repeated by Hugo Parmentier in January this year.

Chanourdie had demonstrated her incredible talent and form in March when she sent her first 9a+, Super Crackinette at St. Léger du Ventoux. This is evidently one of her favourite climbing areas and while a few days ago she made a rare female 8b onsight with her first-go ascent of La barre à un million d’année, yesterday she landed this coup which places her among the all-time greats of modern sports climbing.

Links: FB Julia ChanourdieLa SportivaPetzl

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@julia.cassou Il s’est passé quelque chose de dingue hier soir, j’enchaîne Eagle-4 mon premier 9b... J’ai encore du mal à réaliser car tout a été très rapide ! Hier je sentais que c’était possible d’enchaîner, car j’avais mis un bel essai la veille. J’étais donc hyper motivée sans trop comprendre que je pouvais réussir mon premier 9b... et j’enchaîne au 4ème essai de la journée à la nuit tombante, au run du « kosovar », avec même une petite flemme, il a fallu que je me boost pas mal mentalement avant d’y aller, je pensais que j’allais être fatiguée de mes essais précédents. Mais, dès le premier mouv passé (l’un des plus durs pour moi), tout a suivi assez naturellement, il faisait un peu plus frais que pour les autres essais, je me laissais juste avancer, mouv par mouv sans rien lâcher. J’étais assez stressée ces derniers jours par rapport à la situation sanitaire. J’avais peur que l’accès aux falaises pour les athlètes de haut niveau ne soit bientôt plus possible et donc de repousser cette réalisation à beaucoup plus tard. C’était toujours dans un coin de ma tête, alors je savais au fond de moi qu’il valait mieux ne pas trop tarder. À ce propos, merci à tous pour vos adorables messages de félicitations et pour votre soutien et votre compréhension Je vous donne plus d’infos très prochainement avec des précisions sur l’aventure Eagle-4, des photos et des vidéos. Yesterday, I sent Eagle-4, my first 9b... It all happened so fast ! I felt it coming though, because I'd put in a good run the day before. I was really motivated, even though I couldn't quite envision sending my first 9b. Late in the evening, I had to psych myself up before my 4th run. But after the first move, everything started to flow. The temperature had dropped, I felt cooler than my earlier runs. I just climbed, move after move and hung onto each of them for the send ! The past days, the national restrictions had me nervous. I was worried professional athlete access to the crags would be cut off. It would have postponed the sent. That thought was in the back of my mind and it helped propel me forward on the route. Huge thanks to all of you. Stay tuned I’ll post more soon

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