Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati
At Ceuse in France, Stefano Carnati has repeated Biographie, the world famous sport climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as the benchmark 9a+.
Taking advantage of what are probably the last days of stable weather before the end of this immensely long summer, last Friday Italy's Stefano Carnati took down one of the most sought-after 9a+ climbs in the world, Biographie at Céüse in France.
Carnati first started working this stamina test in July 2017, during the same period as America’s Margo Hayes who subsequently clinched the first female ascent, but at the time the route proved too difficult for the Italian.
Other quick trips followed during which Carnati repeated the neighbouring 8c+ Mr. Hyde, but his main objective remained the 60-move overhanging blue streak with its 7C boulder crux towards the end. Envisioned by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in the early '90s, Biographie was climbed to the chains at half-height by Arnaud Petit in 1996 and then extended to its logical conclusion by Chris Sharma in 2001. All the world’s best, sooner or later, test themselves against these holds and now the 20-year-old student has become the second Italian to redpoint the line after Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015.
TOPO: the crag Céüse
BIOGRAPHIE -THE ROUTE'S HISTORY
bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, climbed to half-height by Arnaud Petit in 1996. The extension was freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and called Realization.
Chris Sharma, USA, 2001
Sylvain Millet, France, 2004
Patxi Usobiaga, Spain, 2004
Dave Graham, USA, 2007
Ethan Pringle, USA, 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque, Spain, 2008
Enzo Oddo, France, 2010
Jonathan Siegrist, USA, 2014
Alexander Megos, Germany, 2014
Adam Ondra, Czech Republic, 2014
Sachi Amma, Japan, 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi, Italy, 2015
Jon Cardwell, USA, 2016
Sean Bailey, USA, 2016
Margo Hayes, USA, 2017
Piotr Schab, POL, 2018
Stefano Carnati, 2018