Home page Planetmountain.com
Stefano Carnati climbing Biographie at Céüse, France, on 21/09/2018. This 60-move stamin test was first climbed in 2001 by Chris Sharma and is recognised as the world's benchmark 9a+
Photo by Marco Zanone
The fantastic view onto Ceüse, Haute Alpes, France.
Photo by Planetmountain.com

Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati

di

At Ceuse in France, Stefano Carnati has repeated Biographie, the world famous sport climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as the benchmark 9a+.

Taking advantage of what are probably the last days of stable weather before the end of this immensely long summer, last Friday Italy's Stefano Carnati took down one of the most sought-after 9a+ climbs in the world, Biographie at Céüse in France.

Carnati first started working this stamina test in July 2017, during the same period as America’s Margo Hayes who subsequently clinched the first female ascent, but at the time the route proved too difficult for the Italian.

Other quick trips followed during which Carnati repeated the neighbouring 8c+ Mr. Hyde, but his main objective remained the 60-move overhanging blue streak with its 7C boulder crux towards the end. Envisioned by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille in the early '90s, Biographie was climbed to the chains at half-height by Arnaud Petit in 1996 and then extended to its logical conclusion by Chris Sharma in 2001. All the world’s best, sooner or later, test themselves against these holds and now the 20-year-old student has become the second Italian to redpoint the line after Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015.

TOPO: the crag Céüse

BIOGRAPHIE -THE ROUTE'S HISTORY
bolted by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille, climbed to half-height by Arnaud Petit in 1996. The extension was freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and called Realization.
Chris Sharma, USA, 2001
Sylvain Millet, France, 2004
Patxi Usobiaga, Spain, 2004
Dave Graham, USA, 2007
Ethan Pringle, USA, 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque, Spain, 2008
Enzo Oddo, France, 2010
Jonathan Siegrist, USA, 2014
Alexander Megos, Germany, 2014
Adam Ondra, Czech Republic, 2014
Sachi Amma, Japan, 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi, Italy, 2015
Jon Cardwell, USA, 2016
Sean Bailey, USA, 2016
Margo Hayes, USA, 2017
Piotr Schab, POL, 2018
Stefano Carnati, 2018

Links: FB Stefano Carnati, Instagram Stefano Carnati, La Sportiva, CAMP

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Chris Sharma climbs Biographie at Ceuse!
19.07.2001
Chris Sharma climbs Biographie at Ceuse!
American Chris Sharma links the first and second section of Biographie at Ceuse in France, widely considered one of the hardest projects in the world, calling it Realization.
Chris Sharma, the energy of Biographie at Ceuse
20.09.2001
Chris Sharma, the energy of Biographie at Ceuse
Three years of trying, walking up to the crag, putting on climbing shoes, lighting incense, chalking up and setting off for the next attempt. Chris Sharma has now realised his dream called Biographie - Realization.
Stefano Carnati climbs 9a at Céüse and Entraygues in France
17.08.2016
Stefano Carnati climbs 9a at Céüse and Entraygues in France
During a few short trips to France, Italy’s Stefano Carnati repeated Condè de Choc 9a at Entraygues in the Briançon region and Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a at Ceuse.
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15.06.2016
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Stefano Carnati climbs Cornalba's Goldrake 9a+
21.03.2016
Stefano Carnati climbs Cornalba's Goldrake 9a+
On Sunday 20 March 2016 at Cornalba, Italy, Stefano Carnati made the third ascent of Goldrake, the 9a+ sports climb freed by Adam Ondra and repeated so far only by Gabriele Moroni.
Around 9a, Stefano Carnati
21.06.2017
Around 9a, Stefano Carnati
With Action Directe, Goldrake, Underground to name just three, the Italian climber Stefano Carnati has proven he can climb 9a. This video is dedicated not to these climbs, but to this mythical grade in sport climbing.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra