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Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
12/01/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
11/01/2019 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites
Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
09/01/2019 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Jakub Konečný climbs Catxasa at Santa Linya, his first 9a+
05/01/2019 - Climbing
Jakub Konečný climbs Catxasa at Santa Linya, his first 9a+
On 31/12/2018 at Santa Linya in Spain the 19-year-old Czech climber Jakub Konečný redpointed Catxasa, his first 9a+ sports climb.
Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling
04/01/2019 - Alpinism
Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling
The film Generation Dry that explores the world of dry tooling, mixed climbing and winter mountaineering. Directed by Pierre Chauffour, with Gaetan Raymond, François Damilano, Jeff Mercier, Fred Degoulet, Tom Ballard and the late Stéphane Husson.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
29/12/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Neanderthal, the 9b sports climb put up by Chris Sharma in 2009 at the Santa Linya in Spain.
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
28/12/2018 - Alpinism
Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers
On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
19/12/2018 - Climbing
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
At Margalef in Spain, Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Artaburu, his hardest sport climb to date.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
16/12/2018 - Climbing
Wafaa Amer claims Hyaena, historic Andrea Gallo testpiece at Finale, Italy
Egyptian rock climber Wafaa Amer report about her repeat of Hyaena, the milestone in Italian sports climbing freed by Andrea Gallo in 1986 at Finale Ligure.

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