Home page Planetmountain.com
Luka Lindič making the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte, Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites)
Photo by Ines Papert, Luka Lindič
Ines Papert making the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte, Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites), carried out on 01/01/2019 with Luka Lindič
Photo by Ines Papert, Luka Lindič
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič on the summit of Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites) on 01/01/2019 after having made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte
Photo by Ines Papert, Luka Lindič
The line of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites).
Photo by Ines Papert, Luka Lindič

Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites

di

Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.

Germany’s Ines Papert and Slovenia’s Luka Lindič have made what is likely to the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte, the 600m outing up the west face of Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites. The line was established on 12 March 2013 by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi after Franchini had forged the first 7 pitches on his own a few days earlier. Due to the onset of darkness and fog the two opted to retreat after the difficulties, and recently the line was attempted by Gianni Canale, Roberto Maroschini, Aldo Mazzotti and Demis Lorenzi who turned back after pitch 7.

This was the first visit to the Brenta Dolomites for both Papert and Lindič and their original plan had been to repeat Filo d’Ambiez, the route established on 14 December 2018 by Canale, Mazzotti and Lorenzi. Papert and Lindič pitched their tent late on 30 December at the foot of Cima Crozzon and, after discovering the next morning that Filo d’Ambiez was no longer in condition, decided to explore the valley further and choose and objective for the first day of the new year.

"We were intrigued by the spectacular valley surrounded with peaks and walls. We could see the thin ice lines everywhere but were in doubt which one would offer the best conditions."
recounts Papert, adding "And there it was, the most obvious line leading almost to the summit of the Cima Tosa with 3133 m, the second highest peak of the Brenta. Ice glued like plastic to the dolomite rock. All we knew was that we were climbing the west face of the Cima Tosa, but abandoned gear in the route soon led us to believe it was an existing route."

Papert explains "We took the direct line up ice that formed this year and the signs of other climbers disappeared. Thin, difficult to protect ice, was just good enough to enable us to always follow a direct line up the steep face. Each pitch held a surprise and offered more challenging climbing than expected. Soon the steep wall turned into a gully that we followed to the end. A few hundred meters higher we reached the summit of Cima Tosa at 16 o'clock and had just enough light to find the descent (3 rappells) on ​​the south side. At about 7.30 pm we reached our little tent, packed up quickly and ran back down to the valley for a pizza."

The ascent is a repeat of Selvaggia sorte with some important new variations, and it came about after further repeats across the Dolomites. On 19/12/2018 the duo climbed Jumbo jet via its direct start, rarely repeated as this seldomly forms, while on 20/12/2018 they climbed Zauberflöte and added a variation on pitch 3 they called Papageno.

Link: IG Ines PapertFB Ines Papertinespapert.comIG Luca LindičFB Luca LindičArc'teryx

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25.12.2018
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Luka Lindič & Ines Papert: safe and sound after Shishapangma avalanche
01.06.2018
Luka Lindič & Ines Papert: safe and sound after Shishapangma avalanche
During the acclimatisation phase prior to Shishapangma in Tibet Slovenia’s Luka Lindič and the Germany’s Ines Papert miraculously escaped an avalanche on Nyanang Ri.
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
12.04.2018
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
04.03.2017
Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert
Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
04.01.2017
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
Winter mountaineering: Ines Papert reports about the first repeat of the ice and mixed climb ‘Nordest Supercombo' (800m, M7, R) up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile, carried out on 30/12/2016 together with Luka Lindič
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26.10.2016
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra