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Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
10/06/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
The 2019 Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki from Japan. The last stage in Vail, USA, was won on Saturday night by Garnbret and Yoshiyuki Ogata.
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and...
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain
Bad weather did not stop the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival which welcomed a record number of climbers. Organised by the ‘Gamatzn' climbing club, the meeting took place from 24 to 26 May 2019 at Sexten and in the Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites, close to the world famous...
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
20/05/2019 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
The fifth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won yesterday by Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret in Munich, Germany. Fanny Gibert and Adam Ondra took silver, Mia Krampl and Jan Hojer bronze.
In memory of Lorenzo Major
20/05/2019 - Climbing
In memory of Lorenzo Major
Paraclimbing champion and talented athlete Lorenzo Major has passed away. This is a huge loss for the entire Paralympic community. Sandro Neri remembers his Italian teammate.

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