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Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
12/10/2018 - Events
Piolets d’Or 2018 ceremony in Poland / Report and photos
Complete report and photographs of the Piolets d’Or 2018, the prestigious annual mountaineering award celebrated from 20 - 23 September at Ladek Zdrój in Poland.
Cédric Lachat at Jansegg repeats Pirmin Bertle 9a+
11/10/2018 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat at Jansegg repeats Pirmin Bertle 9a+
At Jansegg in Switzerland Cédric Lachat has repeated La Cène du Roi Lézard, the 9a+ established in 2017 by Pirmin Bertle.
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
Eric Albertini frees Infinity 9a, the longest climb at Pueblo, Massone Arco
08/10/2018 - Climbing
Eric Albertini frees Infinity 9a, the longest climb at Pueblo, Massone Arco
Rock climbing at Arco, Italy: at the crag Massone the 32-year-old electrician from Brescia Eric Albertini repeated the 9a Pure Dreaming and made the first ascent of Infinity. Graded 9a, this 50m outing is now the longest sport climb in the sector Pueblo at Massone.
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
06/10/2018 - Alpinism
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
04/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Verdon Gorge: Sébastien Bouin frees his climbing masterpiece at La Ramirole
02/10/2018 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge: Sébastien Bouin frees his climbing masterpiece at La Ramirole
At the Gorges du Verdon in France Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of 'La cote d'usure', a 60-meter sport climb graded 9a+ bolted by the French climber nine years ago.
Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi colossal at Kranj
01/10/2018 - Competitions
Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi colossal at Kranj
Yesterday at Kranj in Slovenia Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi won the fifth stage of the Lead World Cup 2018. Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret won silver, Masahiro Highuchi and Hannah Schubert bronze.
New boulders in Cresciano - winter 2017/2018
29/09/2018 - Climbing
New boulders in Cresciano - winter 2017/2018
James Webb, Samuel Ometz, Giuliano Cameroni and Sebsatian Cotting completing some of their climbing projects last winter in Cresciano, Switzerland.
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
28/09/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
27/09/2018 - Alpinism
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V+) reaches the north...
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
26/09/2018 - Trekking
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
Mountain running in Switzerland: Bettmeralp alongside the Aletsch Glacier, Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald and Monte Zucchero. Three magnificent trail running routes in the Swiss Alps taken from the guidebook 'Run the Alps Switzerland: 30 Must-Do Trails' produced by PatitucciPhoto and ALPSinsight.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati
23/09/2018 - Climbing
Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati
At Ceuse in France, Stefano Carnati has repeated Biographie, the world famous sport climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as the benchmark 9a+.