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Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
26/06/2019 - Interviews
Alex Puccio: pure bouldering power and passion
Interview with American climber Alex Puccio, one of the most accomplished female boulderers in the world.
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
26/06/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade
Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has repeated Sweet Neuf at Pierrot Beach in France, confirming the 9a+ grade suggested after the first ascent by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium.
Chiara Hanke in Frankenjura becomes first German woman to climb 9a
24/06/2019 - Climbing
Chiara Hanke in Frankenjura becomes first German woman to climb 9a
25-year-old Chiara Hanke has repeated Sever the wicked hand in the Frankenjura and, in doing so, has become the first German woman to climb 9a.
Ice & Palms, Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck cycle ski across the Alps
Ice & Palms, Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck cycle ski across the Alps
The award-winning film Ice & Palms that documents the extraordinary journey carried out by Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck across the Alps by bike and of skis from Germany to Nice in France
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
14/06/2019 - Alpinism
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
13/06/2019 - Alpinism
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
On Croz dele Mirandole (Roccione di Ranzo) at Ranzo in the Sarca valley, Italy, Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi and Elio Mazzalai have made the first ascent of Speta che Vegno, a new multi-pitch climb they established ground-up.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
10/06/2019 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!
The 2019 Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki from Japan. The last stage in Vail, USA, was won on Saturday night by Garnbret and Yoshiyuki Ogata.
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs
In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
05/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and...
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
31/05/2019 - Alpinism
Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera
Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.