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Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
Sport climbing in Spain: Piotr Schab from Poland has redpointed his first 9b, Fight or Flight established by Chris Sharma at Oliana in Spain.
Flawless perfection: Janja Garnbret and YiLing Song win in Chongqing in China
01/05/2019 - Competitions
Flawless perfection: Janja Garnbret and YiLing Song win in Chongqing in China
The third stage of the 2019 Bouldering World Cup took place last weekend in Chongqing in China and was won by Slovenian Janja Garnbret and France’s Manuel Cornu. The second stage of the Speed ​​World Cup was won on Friday...
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED,...
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the...
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
Cima di Bon NE Face skied by Luca and Roberto Dallavalle
On 20/04/2019 Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto Dallavalle skied the Northeast Face of Cima di Bon in the Adamello - Presanella group. This is likely to be the first ski descent.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Luca Dallavalle reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of the NW Face of Cima Scarpacò (3252m) in the Adamello - Presanella group, climbed and skied on 22/04/2019 with his brother Roberto Dallavalle.
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Sébastien de Sainte Marie and Marco Cavalli have skied what is likely to the first descent of the North Face of Piz Dolf / Trinserhorn (3027m) in the Swiss Alps. de Sainte Marie reports.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and...
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The...
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain...
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
13/04/2019 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
08/04/2019 - Alpinism
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
From 2 - 3 April 2019 Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert made the first ascent of The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) up Mount Fay in the Alberta Rockies, Canada. This is the first route to climb...
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
05/04/2019 - Climbing
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
French sports climber Lucien Martinez has made the third ascent of Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse, after Chris Sharma in 2007 and Adam Ondra in 2015.