Home page Planetmountain.com
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton making the first ascent of 'Marc-Andre’s Visión' up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, February 2020. The route breaches a hitherto unclimbed crack system up the sharp and elegant East Pillar of Torre Egger and was envisaged by the late Marc-André Leclerc during his ground-breaking first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in 2016.
Photo by archive Brette Harrington
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton making the first ascent of 'Marc-Andre’s Visión' up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, February 2020.
Photo by archive Brette Harrington
Brette Harrington making the first ascent of 'Marc-Andre’s Visión' up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, with Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton in February 2020.
Photo by archive Brette Harrington
The line of 'Marc-Andre’s Visión' up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, completed in February 2020 by Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton
Photo by archive Brette Harrington

Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia

di

Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.

The exceptional spell of good weather has resulted in yet another new climb in the Cerro Torre group, this time the hands of Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton who from 6 - 9 February completed Marc-Andre’s Visión up the East Face of Torre Egger.

The route breaches a hitherto unclimbed crack system up the sharp and elegant East Pillar of Torre Egger and was envisaged by the late Marc-André Leclerc during his ground-breaking first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in 2016. Leclerc had shared photos of the line with his partner Harrington, and after he perished in 2018 she decided to try the route with good friend Quentin Lindfield Roberts. In early 2019 they succeeded in establishing the first 13 pitches but were forced to retreat from the huge snowfield half way up the mountain onas somehow her mountain boots had detached from the hauling system and fell down the wall.

Harrington and Roberts returned this season and invited Argentinian friend Horacio Gratton to join them. On 6 February, despite encountering "incredibly icy and cold conditions" the trio made swift progress and established a 4-pitch variation to avoid wet and icy sections in the upper dihedral before reaching small and uncomfortable bivy on a snow ledge. The next day they moved their bivy site 100m higher to the midway snow ledge, then fixed the first pitch on the Titanic headwall before waiting for the rest of the day for the sun to clean off unwanted snow and ice above. On day three they reached the summit by following Titanic, started in 1987 by the Italians Guido Cominelli, Lorenzo Nadali and Andrea Sarchi and completed from 2 - 5 November that year by their compatriots Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi.

Talking about the summit push, Harrington told planetmountain.com "We found rock, ice and mixed climbing throughout the day. I dug a tunnel through the upper summit rime mushroom and we topped out around 6 pm. We spent an hour in the setting sun before starting the long descent. We rappelled throughout the night, arriving at the midway ledge around 2 am." On the next day they rappelled the lower wall and returned to Basecamp.

Torre Egger, Patagonia
Marc-Andre’s Visión

12b/c, 950m, 90 degrees.
Brette Harrington, Quentin Lindfield Roberts, Horacio Gratton. February 6-9, 2020.

Brette Harrington thanks: La Sportiva, The North Face

Reference: www.pataclimb.com, American Alpine Journal

View this post on Instagram

This is what I was up to for the past 5 days. Along with @quentinclimbing and @horaciogratton we finished our line called Marc-Andrés Visión on the East Pillar of Torre Egger by linking it into the upper Titanic Headwall, to the summit. Cold and icy conditions made the climbing quite challenging, often by use of one crampon on the left foot and one rock shoe on the right foot, one ice axe, and bare hands. 4 days on the wall has left me feeling so very content with our effort and patience as we waited for the wall to clean itself of ice. This would not have been possible without the endless inspiration from @mdre92 . I did not stop thinking of him up there soloing this mountain alone in winter of 2016. #ClimbOnMA , you amaze me more and more as I retrace your steps through the mountains. I will love you forever. @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @julboeyewearna @goodtogofoods @firstascentcb @dmm_wales @lasportivana #mammutavalanchesafety #Torreegger #alpineclimbing #elchalten #argentina

A post shared by Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) on

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Fabian Buhl's Patagonia Cerro Torre paraglide flight footage
12.02.2020
Fabian Buhl's Patagonia Cerro Torre paraglide flight footage
The video of Fabian Buhl paragliding off the summit of Cerro Torre in Patagonia on 7 February 2020.
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
11.02.2020
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Fabian Buhl paraglides off Cerro Torre
08.02.2020
Fabian Buhl paraglides off Cerro Torre
Paralpinism in Patagonia: German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has made a paraglide flight off the summit of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. The 29-year-old is the first to do so after reaching the summit by his own means.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02.02.2020
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15.11.2019
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
02.05.2018
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
Alpinists Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson have made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+ 80°, TD+, 980m of climbing), a big new alpine outing up the West Face of Mount Blane in Canada.
Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson officially presumed dead in Alaska
15.03.2018
Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson officially presumed dead in Alaska
The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
21.02.2017
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
19.09.2016
Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
05.10.2015
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
25.01.2015
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
COVER
Via delle Rosine, prima discesa, #iorestoacasa
Federico Ravassard Outdoor Photography