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Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Cima Scarpacò NW Face, Dallavalle brothers complete demanding ski descent
Luca Dallavalle reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of the NW Face of Cima Scarpacò (3252m) in the Adamello - Presanella group, climbed and skied on 22/04/2019 with his brother Roberto Dallavalle.
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Sébastien de Sainte Marie and Marco Cavalli have skied what is likely to the first descent of the North Face of Piz Dolf / Trinserhorn (3027m) in the Swiss Alps. de Sainte Marie reports.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
13/04/2019 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
08/04/2019 - Alpinism
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
From 2 - 3 April 2019 Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert made the first ascent of The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) up Mount Fay in the Alberta Rockies, Canada. This is the first route to climb the entire East Face.
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
05/04/2019 - Climbing
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
French sports climber Lucien Martinez has made the third ascent of Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse, after Chris Sharma in 2007 and Adam Ondra in 2015.
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
04/04/2019 - Alpinism
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
03/04/2019 - Alpinism
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
On the Mandrea rock face above Arco (Valle del Sarca, Italy) Ivan Maghella and Alessandro Arduini have made the first ascent of Testa tra le nuvole (270m, 7a+ max, 6c S2 obbl.), a new multi-pitch bolted rock climb. Arduini reports.
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
02/04/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.
Jim Reynolds races up Fitz Roy in Patagonia solo
31/03/2019 - Alpinism
Jim Reynolds races up Fitz Roy in Patagonia solo
American alpinist Jim Reynolds has made an extremely fast solitary ascent of Fitz Roy, climbing up and down climbing the long Afanassieff route.
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
30/03/2019 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
While Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of his 8c+ project in Japan aged 50, in Spain 30-year-old Sachi Amma has redpointed his third 9b, Stoking the fire at Santa Linya.
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
Brenta Dolomites steep skiing: descents off Cima Brenta and Cima del Vallon
In the Brenta Dolomites Luca Dallavalle and his brother Roberto skied the west couloir of Cima Brenta (3151m) on 09/03/2019, while on 25/03/2019 they skied the NW Face of Cima del Vallon (2968m).