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Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Piz Dolf North Face ski descent by Marco Cavalli, Sébastien de Sainte Marie
Sébastien de Sainte Marie and Marco Cavalli have skied what is likely to the first descent of the North Face of Piz Dolf / Trinserhorn (3027m) in the Swiss Alps. de Sainte Marie reports.
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
The Mezzalama Trophy 2019 has been postponed due to adverse weather conditions. The legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa will now take place on Sunday 28 April.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
Felipe Camargo battles his way up El bon combat 9b
21/04/2019 - Climbing
Felipe Camargo battles his way up El bon combat 9b
Brazilian climber Felipe Camargo has made the third ascent of El Bon Combat at Cova de Ocell in Spain after Chris Sharma and Jakob Schubert.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
Everest Virtual Reality climb with Sherpa Tenji, Jon Griffith
10/04/2019 - Alpinism
Everest Virtual Reality climb with Sherpa Tenji, Jon Griffith
The trailer of Everest VR, the film by British mountaineer Jon Griffith that documents an attempt by Sherpa Tenji to climb Mt Everest without supplementary oxygen.
Arco Rock Star reveals pro photographer line-up for Climbing Photo Contest
10/04/2019 - Events
Arco Rock Star reveals pro photographer line-up for Climbing Photo Contest
The international climbing photography contest Arco Rock Star has revealed the 10 PRO teams that will compete for the perfect photo from 10 to 12 May 2019 at Arco, Italy during the Adventure Awards Days festival. Registration is still open for the OPEN category
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
08/04/2019 - Alpinism
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
From 2 - 3 April 2019 Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert made the first ascent of The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) up Mount Fay in the Alberta Rockies, Canada. This is the first route to climb the entire East Face.
Dolorock 2019, the great climbing festival in the heart of the Dolomites
04/04/2019 - Events
Dolorock 2019, the great climbing festival in the heart of the Dolomites
From 24 to 26 May 2019 the seventh edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place all around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. The event is open to all and is designed welcome diversity, promote tolerance and nurture critical discussions on issues related to climbing and mountaineering.
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
03/04/2019 - Alpinism
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
On the Mandrea rock face above Arco (Valle del Sarca, Italy) Ivan Maghella and Alessandro Arduini have made the first ascent of Testa tra le nuvole (270m, 7a+ max, 6c S2 obbl.), a new multi-pitch bolted rock climb. Arduini reports.
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
02/04/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.