190 News found

In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).

Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).

In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).

On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.

New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.

On 22 July 2018 30-year-old Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel made the coveted historic first ski descent of K2, skiing directly off the 8611m high summit of the second highest mountain in the world.

32-year-old mountaineer Italian Maurizio Giordano from the Aosta Military Expedition perished while climbing Gasherbrum IV in Karakorum, Pakistan.

France's Jonathan Charlet and Christophe Henry have made a ski and snowboard descent down the North Face of Triolet, Mont Blanc massif.

After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of...

On 27 October the Italian mountaineer Enrico Mosetti and the Britons Ben Briggs and Tom Grant made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face, the difficult and dangerous SE Face of Mount Aoraki / Mount Cook (3724m) in New Zealand. The achievement has already been described by the local...

On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.

In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.

On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.

In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.

In April 2017 Greg Boswell and Will Sim made the first ascent of two big new alpine climbs in the Central Alaskan Range: Beastiality up Bear's Tooth and Shark Fishing on a mountain on the opposite side of the Buckskin Glacier.