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Ortler NE Face: Daniel Ladurner running it out while climbing a probable new route on 18/10/2018 with Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati
Photo by Daniel Ladurner
Ortler NE Face: Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr, Aaron Durogati climbing their probable new route on 18/10/2018
Photo by Daniel Ladurner
Aaron Durogati, Hannes Lemayr and Daniel Ladurner having climbed the NE Face of Ortler on 18/10/2018
Photo by Daniel Ladurner
Ortler NE Face and the route line climbed by Aaron Durogati, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr on 18/10/2018
Photo by Daniel Ladurner

Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr

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On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.

According to all the research carried out so far, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati have climbed what could well be a new line of ice, snow and rock up the northeast face of the Ortles, circa 250 meters to the left of the classic Schückrinne.

Ladurner told planetmountain.com "I had noticed this line some time ago and after Hannes told me he’d already tried it with Herbert Plattner and failed due to poor conditions in 2017 - on 18 October we decided to try this obvious line again up the NE Face, directly below the serac.

The route starts at around 2700m. We climbed unroped for the first 300 meters, passing very friable stepped terrain up to a crack . From there I took the lead, climbing over delicate slabs, corners and ledges leftwards towards the impressive drip of ice. From there we followed the ice that emerged from beneath the serac. Super cool ice climbing for this season. We ended in style by climbing an easy but beautiful line to breach the 80m serac."

The three reached the col at about 3550 meters and while Lemayr descended on foot down the classic Hintergrad ridge, Durogati and Ladurner flew down by paraglider to Sulden in a mere 10 minutes.

Of the 17 pitches, 6 are on pure ice, and the overall grade is rock IV+; ice WI4; mixed M4. The reason why the line had not been climbed is probably due to the serac. “Locals told me" Ladurner explained "that up to 10 years ago, the serac overhungg so much that climbing it would have been too dangerous." Now though everything has changed."

On Ortler Daniel Ladurner made the first ascent of Gnadenlos up the NW Face wwith Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner in 2017, while in 2016 together with Lemayer he established Pleishornwasserfall up the NE Face.

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NEWS / Related news:
Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
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On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.
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On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.
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Alpinism: the video documenting the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall, the new ice and mixed climb established on 13/12/2016 by Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer up the NE Face of Ortler (3905m).
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
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Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of Königsspitze and Monte Zebrù.

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